Your first glimpse of Alexander Powell — the new executive chef at the sleek 701 Restaurant in D.C.’s Penn Quarter — shows a tall, lean, somewhat angular man whose athletic stance suggests “serious player.” Then he breaks into his wide, cheerful grin, and youunderstand that while this chef may be all business in the kitchen, he’s also got an easygoing manner.
As a native of Jamaica, West Indies, Powell may come by some island charm naturally. But more importantly, his island culture and cuisine have strongly impacted his cooking style, as he notes that Jamaican flavors and ingredients influence 60 to 70 percent of his cooking, and using such items as lemongrass, coconut milk, galangal, lime leaves and chilies in his recipes “brings me home.”
But more than island flavors have affected Powell: His mom was a great cook, and that inspired him to consider a culinary career.
“Mom was the best cook I’ve ever known,” he says. “I watched her creating recipes. I was always around food because we had a family restaurant … so I started cooking at an early age.” One of his after-school tasks was helping the family prep for the dinner crowds.
His cooking life took a definite upswing when he moved to New York years ago, where he decided to become a chef full-time; as a result, he attended the New York Restaurant School. As part of his training, he apprenticed with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of America’s foremost chefs, and since then, he has never looked back.
“I started at Jo Jo [Vongerichten’s New York bistro] as part of my training, and I was hired after just the third week,” he says. “I was very naïve about French cooking, and I grew up on the line, from pastry, to pantry, to fish cooking.”
Now in Washington after years of working for Vongerichten in New York and the Bahamas, Powell embraces his new job and new hometown, despite the long hours.
“I’m here 24/7, but I have a passion for cooking,” he says.
And he plans to head home to Jamaica whenever time allows, reiterating that the island — and Jean-Georges Vongerichten — have inspired his recipe creations.
“I still go back to my roots, to allthe ingredients I used to eat as a child,” he says, describing his most exciting creation. “It’s a fresh lobster salad which calls for a passion fruit vinaigrette. … I make a passion fruit reduction, and use Thai chilies and chili oil.”
Visualizing this dish, one can understand why Powell keeps such ingredients as passion fruit juice in his fridge.
In Powell’s own words
Who does the cooking at home?
My wife. She is also a good cook and cooks the family food. But I do the surprise dinners, like for birthdays.
What is your favorite dish?
I grew up eating seafood, so lobster is my favorite food. I make a light curry sauce with lemongrass, lime leaves and turmeric, and serve the lobster with ripe plantains and steamed bok choy.
What is your comfort food?
I don’t snack a lot, so a simple salad, or grilled fresh fish, or popcorn.
What’s in your fridge?
Salad fixings, tomatoes, juices including passion fruit juice, goat meat, cow feet, wine, beer.
Which ingredients are your “musts”?
Spices such as turmeric, and fresh herbs such as parsley, chilies, oregano, ginger and galangal.
What is your cooking philosophy?
Simple food. I use very healthful ingredients with no trans fats. I use fresh herb oils for flavors. I don’t take a steak and try to make it into something different. The focus is all on the dish and the ingredients.
What advice would you give to beginning cooks?
Keep it simple, clean, healthful and fresh. And have a passion, drive and dedication. And think about what others like to eat.
Which is your favorite cuisine?
French and Asian with Caribbean ingredients.
Veal chop, roasted white and green asparagus, shallot confit, and ancho chili sauce
Serves 6
Ancho chile sauce
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped chipotle chile
1 tablespoon chopped ancho chile
1/3 cup Port wine
1 cup lime juice
1 cup lemon juice
1 cup orange juice
3 tablespoons fish sauce
Shallot confit
1 pound shallots, shredded and cooked in butter to soften
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons veal or beef stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped tarragon
Roasted asparagus
12 stalks white asparagus, peeled
12 stalks green asparagus, peeled
12 slices bacon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
12 ounces puff pastry
Olive oil for brushing
Roasted potatoes
2 roasting potatoes
1 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup olive oil
Veal chops
6 veal chops, frenched
Micro arugula for garnish
Grapeseed oil for drizzling
» To make the ancho chile sauce
Moisten the sugar with a little water just to dissolve, and cook until the sugar caramelizes. Add the garlic, and cook over medium heat until the garlic browns. Add the chiles and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Deglaze the pan with wine. Add the juices and continue cooking until syrupy. Stir in the fish sauce, and strain through a very fine strainer.
» To make the shallot confit
Continue cooking the softened shallots in a large saucepan, stir in the vinegar and cook until the liquid evaporates. Add the stock, season with salt and pepper, add the tarragon and keep warm.
» To prepare the asparagus
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice the spears in half, and wrap four halves in a bacon slice. Season with salt and pepper. Cut the puff pastry into six 2-ounce squares, and roll out slightly with a rolling pin. Wrap each piece of dough around an asparagus bundle, placing the bundles seam side down on a baking sheet. Brush each bundle with oil. Bake for 10 minutes.
» To prepare the potatoes
Peel and slice each potato 1 inch thick, and use a vegetable peeler to shape each piece into an oval disk. Heat the grapeseed and olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, and poach the disks slowly for about 2 minutes; drain the oil, and sauté the ovals until browned.
» To prepare the veal chops
Season with salt and pepper and roast until medium rare to medium. Arrange one chop per serving on individual plates, and serve with roasted asparagus and roasted potatoes, and top with a portion of the shallot confit. Garnish with the micro greens and a drizzle of the ancho chile sauce and grapeseed oil.
