In the northeast section of France lies the legendary wine region of Alsace. Bordered along the western side by the Vosges Mountains and to the east by the Rhine River — which acts as the German boarder — the Alsace is the smallest wine region in France. But as the old saying goes, big wines come from small appellations — or something like that.
The area is prone to particularly hot summers and cold, crisp winters. In addition, the diversity of soil compositions — ranging from sand, granite, clay and marl — makes this region a winemaker’s dream where some of the world’s finest Riesling, pinot blanc, muscat and gewuerztraminer wines are produced.
So it’s probably no surprise that one family in this region has been able to build a legacy few others in the wine industry have ever accomplished. It all started back in 1626 when Jean Trimbach began making wine in Alsace. Through the centuries, generation after generation took advantage of the wide-ranging terroir to secure the family’s reputation for producing wines of distinction.
The climax came in 1898, when Frederic Emile Trimbach entered his wines at the International Fair in Brussels and was awarded the most prestigious accolades by the panel of judges. The event literally catapulted Trimbach onto the international wine scene and the family name became synonymous with quality wines of Alsace.
Even through hundreds of years of dispute over the fertile region between Germany and France (the French regained control of the of the region after World War II), the Trimbachs remained firmly in control of their vineyards, though the style of wines changed every so often, to suit the palates of the country that laid claim to the land at the time. A sort of detente through wine, so to speak.
Regardless of national boundaries, the incredible tradition of quality has passed from father to son for 12 generations over a period of six centuries. Today, the House of Trimbach is located in Ribeauville, France, where Hubert and Bernard Trimbach work together in the vineyards and winery where they oversee every aspect of the operation. The 13th generation, Bernard’s sons Pierre and Jean, work beside their father and uncle to continue the tradition of producing quality Trimbach wines by focusing on their own unique end of the business. Pierre makes the wine while Jean is responsible for marketing and contracts.
This incredible family commitment has resulted in wines that are readily identified as a symbol of Alsatian excellence. Here are several of my favorite wines from the extensive family collection. Prices are approximate and subject to change.
2001 Trimbach Gewuerztraminer, Alsace, France ($15)
The Vine Gal and I had this recently at a dinner featuring Thai food and it was a good choice. It has a lovely nose of acacia and lychee nuts. Ripe peaches, apricots and rose petals line the palate on a medium-bodied frame.
2003 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve, Alsace, France ($18)
The wine displayed a wonderful bouquet of green melon and orange citrus blossom. Flavors of pear and crisp apple attacked the front of the palate while creamy flavors of apricot and ripe peach provide a memorable finish.
2003 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, Alsace, France ($40)
When I think Trimbach, this is the wine that comes to mind. Notes of petrol and citrus on the nose lead to a firmly structured wine that features flavors of citrus, peach and nectarine on a minerally frame. Not bad for a wine that has been made for more than 375 years.
2001 Trimbach Pinot Gris Vendages Tardives, Alsace, France ($60)
A remarkable late-harvest wine due to be released later this year, it offers a complex nose of apricot, honey ripe nectarine and fragrant orange blossom. The rich, viscous fruit of dried white raisins and dried apricots has amazing purity and concentration, with a core of vibrant acidity that keeps the flavors focused and in check.
2001 Trimbach Riesling Clos St. Hune, Alsace, France ($125)
Only 700 cases are produced from this tiny 3.2-acre Grand Cru proprietary vineyard where the youngest of the 6,000 vines was planted in 1953. A telltale petrol nose leads to flavors of green apple and nectarine that glide across the palate on a mineral-based frame. Notes of lemon/lime are accentuated on the well-balanced finish by great acidity.
2001 Trimbach Gewuerztraminer Selection de Grains Nobels, Alsace, France ($175)
Lest you think I am insane, given the price of this wine, it is only produced in years when the harvest is absolutely ideal. The botrytized grapes (grapes that have been dehydrated on the vine by a prized fungus) are hand picked one by one. The resulting nectar is vinified into an otherworldly sweet wine featuring lovely flavors of white nectarine, ripe white peach and honeyed pear with hints of lemon zest on the superconcentrated finish — which is kept amazingly light thanks to the abundant acidity.
