So, you’re sitting at your computer. You remember the sights and smells of holidays past: Seafood gumbo cooking in the pot; collard greens that almost melt in your mouth; cornbread stuffing; the baked Virginia ham topped with pineapple, which wasn’t your favorite. You never took to pork.

The thing you wish for most each year is your grandmother’s stuffed squid. No one in the family knows how to make it. You regret that you didn’t ask her for the recipe while she was alive, burning up the kitchen and making it nearly impossible for anyone to pull away from the table.

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