The next morning we were off to the ancient city of Caen and the beaches of Normandy. Rail Europe provides several convenient trains a day, and in less than two hours, we were exploring the ancient cathedrals and cobblestone alleyways. A trip by city bus out to the new Memorial de Caen (Peace Museum) put the ravages of war in perspective and set the mood for our journey the next day when our guide, Anne Marie, drove us 25 miles out of town toward the beaches.
The weather was appropriately cool and rainy — setting the stage for a solemn day. Our first stop, much to our surprise, was the German cemetery. The German plot is much smaller and more austere than its American counterpart. One headstone marker is used for every five soldiers buried here and the crosses that mark each section are black.
Anne Marie then drove us to “Bloody” Omaha Beach, where Scott’s dad came ashore in the third wave of the invasion nearly 65 years before. Anne Marie took us to various parts of the beach and made that day come alive for us as she recounted, minute-by-minute, how the invasion unfolded for each section of the beachfront. After visiting the bunkers and fortified posts, it is hard to imagine what the Allied soldiers must have gone through as they stormed the beaches and made their way up the shoreline. Even our rambunctious boys were rendered speechless.
Our final stop was the American cemetery, where more than 9,000 headstones mark the location of soldiers buried on a sprawling, 172-acre memorial park overlooking Omaha Beach. The cemetery is a remarkable experience. Walking among the grave markers, perfectly aligned in neat rows, we experienced a mixture of sadness and pride, the silence broken only by the beat of the waves crashing upon the shores of the beach just yards away.
For those who want to visit Normandy but do not have time to spend the night, the Normandy Tourism Office has a wonderful tour available in which you can take an early morning train to Caen. A guide will pick you up at the station, take you to the beaches, cemetery and visitor’s center, and have you back at the station in time to grab an evening train back to Paris. For details, check out their Web site at tourisme.caen.fr.
For our last day in Paris, we decided to walk the old streets of Paris. Our first stop was the Montmartre district, in the 18th Arrondissement, which was — literally — the high point of our trip. This former (and current) artist community is home to Basilique du Sacre-Coeur (Basilica of the Sacred Heart), located on top of the 180-yard hill and is the highest point in the city. There is a funicular that you can take to the summit or you can climb the steps up to the top to take in the sweeping views of Paris and visit the neo-Baroque interior of the church. For the truly adventurous, you can climb to the top of the dome for the ultimate bird’s-eye view of the city.
One guidebook inspired us to “get gently lost” in Montmartre and we did. We strolled through cobblestone streets and found lovely gardens and charming houses, and eventually stumbled into the famed Place du Tertre, a large plaza filled with outdoor cafes and artists who are ready to sketch, draw or paint your portrait. This spot brings to mind all of the famous artists — Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso — who spent time here in the late 1800s to early 1900s, trying to scratch out a living. It’s also an easy place to either enjoy a casual lunch or grab a snack as you continue to meander through the streets.
Now we were in the mood for one last run at a museum, and our visit to Montmartre inspired us to visit the Musee National Picasso, located at 5 Rue de Thorigny in the Marais district. The museum has assembled the world’s largest collection of Pablo Picasso’s work and has arranged them in chronological order so that you can easily see the progression of the artist’s paintings and sculptures through his “periods.”
To celebrate our last night in Paris, we dined at one of the most famous brasseries in the city, La Coupole, located at 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse (metro Vavin). A fixture in Montparnasse since 1927, this former coal and wood store has become the centerpiece of the district. A dedicated waiter, who is decked out in traditional Indian garb, serves the specialty of the house — curried lamb — tableside. The rest of the waiters, dressed in classic black and white attire, bustle about the restaurant with an energy that is mind-boggling. Our farewell was capped off with a sparkling candle in the profiteroles and an order of Crepes Suzette.
The next morning, after we checked in and cleared security at the airport, the boys agreed it was an awesome trip. We looked at each other in stunned silence. Mission accomplished.
