The Vine Guy: Wines to spring into spring with

Spring has most definitely sprung in Washington. If the cherry blossoms aren’t proof enough, then the tree pollen building up on cars and inside nasal passages most certainly is.

As the weather warms up, now is a perfect time to start thinking about changing your wardrobe. Your wine wardrobe, that is. As my wife is getting ready to change the bed linens over from flannel to percale and trades in her sweaters and pantsuits for skirts and blouses, I am starting to put away my big winter red wines and looking for something a little — just a little — on the lighter side to drink.

As the months roll toward summer, I gradually begin to change over toward softer-styled wines; whiter whites and pinker roses. During this transition, I still like to keep one corkscrew firmly planted in the cork side of the red wine spectrum. I’m looking for younger red wines that still provide a bit of grip for cool nights but also slide a notch toward brighter fruit and higher acidity that will match up well with seasonal fare and grilled foods. Therefore, I tend to shy away from red wines that are too “big” or have high alcohol levels (over 14 percent can make the wines taste “hot” in hot weather) and look for wines with levels below 12 percent.

Here are a few picks to consider as you transition from dining room table to patio furniture this spring. And make sure to try slipping a few of these red wines in the refrigerator for 15 minutes before serving. Retail prices are approximate.

The obvious choice for me during this time of year is a pretty pinot noir. It just reminds me of kicking back on a warm spring day and taking in the sunshine. The 2007 Sipino Pinot Noir from Yamhill Valley Vineyards — located in the Willamette Valley of Oregon — reminds me of that feeling. For only $14, you get a lovely limited production pinot noir made entirely from estate fruit from Yamhill Valley Vineyard. It features wonderful aromas of red cherry and watermelon. Flavors of strawberry, cherry and red plum are lush and plump in the mouth and carry through nicely onto the medium-bodied finish.

Another pinot noir to consider comes from the French wine region that is synonymous with the varietal; Burgundy. Unlike many pinot noir wines from this exclusive appellation, the 2005 Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir will not break the bank. Twenty-five dollars buys a wine that exudes aromas of dark cherry, red berries and brown sugar. Ripe red-fruit flavors dominate the palate where they are supported by supple tannins and bright acidity. The finish is wonderfully layered and lithe, offering hints of dried herbs and stony minerals.

Of course, Beaujolais is a popular warm weather wine. Made from the gamay grape, Beaujolais wines work well now and into the hot summer months as well. I love serving Beaujolais slightly chilled with burgers or grilled chicken, or slipping it into the picnic basket. Best of all, most Beaujolais are relatively inexpensive. Try the 2008 Georges Duboeuf Julienas La Trin Quee from one of the largest producers of Beaujolais in France. For $14 you get a pretty wine full of bright, fresh red cherry and plum fruit on the palate. The easy, soft finish is long and refreshing, with hints of pomegranate and raspberry gliding in at the end.

Dolcetto wines are an oft-forgotten variety from the Piedmont region of Italy that produces wines that are soft and fruity and ready to drink when released. They’re perfect for picnic lunch or lazy afternoon. At $17, the 2007 Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba is a great choice to pair with lighter pasta dishes or grilled chicken and pork. The nose has these great aromas of wild flowers and dark plums. Mouthwatering flavors of dark raspberry and red plums are accented by bright acidity up front and notes of plush red cherries on the finish.

Another choice from Piedmont is Barbera — a red grape known for producing wines with soft tannins and abundant acidity. At $20, the 2006 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera Ruvei from Piedmont, offers a delightful bouquet featuring scents of wild flowers, sage and cocoa. The medium-bodied frame supports flavors of raspberries, red cherries and spices. A hint of crushed stone on the back of the palate adds a touch of elegance on the finish.

f you’re adventurous and don’t mind being a trendsetter, try starting your next barbecue off with a bottle of Zweigelt. The 2006 Hillinger Zweigelt from Austria has a pronounced nose featuring fresh cherry and wild strawberry scents. The flavors of dark cherry, red fruit and black plum are round and juicy on the palate, with hints of baking spices on the lush finish. The soft tannins and $16 price tag makes this wine a great choice with either burgers or steaks.

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