Old Ebbitt Grill still charms

Clyde’s venerable downtown restaurant, just a block or so from the White House and other institutions of power, is the Old Ebbitt Grill. Probably one of the most popular and busiest restaurants in D.C., this old-timer never fails to charm and please. During the holidays, however, the restaurant makes a special impression: Its oversized and colorful nutcrackers stand at the front door to welcome all comers with a festive spirit.

Snagging a seat without a reservation at prime times may well lead to a long wait. That’s true even with brunch on Sunday mornings. An ideal destination for visitors — the Old Ebbitt is within easy walking distance of the mall and museums — the place tends to fill up early, which a group of us discovered one recent Sunday midmorning.

Fortunately, we’d made 10 a.m. reservations, and after a brief wait, got a booth by the Oyster Bar. If you are at all familiar with a Clyde’s menu, you’ll know that its various kitchens are famous for their trademark chili, their juicy burgers and their crab cakes. But the Old Ebbitt’s brunch menu holds some special charms, and among these is the very unusual The Breakfast Club ($10.95).

Described as a ham and bacon stuffed French toast sandwich, this dish is actually a clever culinary device, and not a traditional sandwich all. It’s pieces of bread wrapped with bacon and ham and drizzled with maple syrup, then pan-griddled. The effect is so unusual that even a cautious dieter would be hard-pressed to leave any morsel behind. By the way, the advertised fresh fruit comes as an accompaniment.

But apparently the real find — and, according to the waiter, the most popular breakfast dish — is the Eggs Chesapeake ($15.95). It resembles the more traditional Eggs Benedict, but imagine this dish transformed into an all-out poached egg extravaganza on an English muffin plus one of Clyde’s must-have crab cakes, all bathed in a sauce that, says the waiter, reflects the flavors of the Chesapeake, or something like that. A clear winner, three of the five of us said.

If you go

Old Ebbitt Grill, 675 15th St., NW; 202-347-4800

Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Friday; 8:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday

Credit cards: All major cards

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