After several years at one of the city’s top French kitchens, chef Gerard Pangaud was forced to close his namesake, Gerard’s Place, last year — a victim not only of the flagging economy, but also of the changing tastes of Washingtonians.
Siroc, the restaurant concept that’s taken its place, is a perfect reflection of those changing tastes — midpriced, comfortable Italian fare. Not that the new chef lacks a pedigree of his own: Martin Lackovic earned his stripes at the late Galileo and I Matti, no mean Italian restaurants themselves.
The Scene: The subdued dark woods, plush carpeting and Old World accents of Gerard’s Place have been supplanted by hardwood floors and walls washed with soft Mediterranean colors (the restaurant’s name, in fact, is a nod to the winds that sweep across the sea from North Africa). Inside, you’ll find a mostly suited crowd of deal makers and K Street power types (on one recent visit, I spotted former Bush aide Karen Hughes).
The Pour: The wine list here is a work in progress, offering only seven wines by the glass among a total of fewer than 30 offerings. But Mehdi Dris, the maitre d’ and owner, says he’ll be expanding the list significantly in coming weeks, supplementing the Italian bottlings with selections from the Napa Valley, Argentina and France.
The Taste: Fans of traditional Italian fare will find plenty to like on Lackovic’s menu, such as sliced prosciutto with seasonal fruit and shaved parmesan, and veal osso bucco over polenta and whole roasted branzino. But dishes such as a spicy shrimp served with warm pomegranate caponata and an olive sauce suggest broader Mediterranean influences. The centerpiece of the menu is Lackovic’s house-made pastas. Try the cappelacci filled with lobster and corn in a red pepper sauce. Or Yukon gold gnocchi with braised lamb. Or my favorite, the zesty black pepper tagliatelle with scallops, garlic and red pepper flakes.
The kitchen isn’t without its missteps, both as a result of conception (an arugula pesto doesn’t redeem a bland and dry salami of baby octopus) and execution (on one visit, a rockfish baked in parchment emerged so underdone that it could almost qualify as sushi).
The Touch: Servers here are professional and attentive, and they know the menu. Trust their recommendations.
Don’t Miss: With the warmer weather approaching, Siroc will open one of the few outdoor patios along K Street.
Why You Won’t Go: Because with a rash of new, midpriced Italian eateries around town, Siroc has plenty of competition.
Why You Will Go: Because unlike the bustling, often noisy atmosphere of some of its competitors, such as the new Potenza and Posto, Siroc lets you enjoy some fine Italian cooking in a relatively peaceful, intimate atmosphere.
If you go
Siroc
915 15th St. NW
202-628-2220
sirocrestaurant.com
Hours: Lunch — 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; Dinner — 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday
Prices: Lunch appetizers $8 to $12; panini, pasta and entrees $9 to $18; dinner appetizers $7 to $12; pasta and entrees $18 to $32
Bottom Line: A calm, understated Italian spot where the cooking generally outpaces the prices.
