Like so many people in the D.C. area, we have a dog. A big, goofy yellow Lab. He was a rescue dog that became part of our family the day before Hurricane Isabel landed in our backyard in the fall of 2003. And like the wind he blew in on, he was a wild and destructive force in our home. But patience, love and a plethora of dog treats soon tamed the wild beast, which is a good thing, because I am fairly sure that my wife was ready to trade in either the dog or me.
In an effort to appease her early on, my three boys came up with the brilliant idea of re-naming the lovable-but-nervous pooch after her favorite wine. So Turley was born, and from the moment we changed his name, both his demeanor and his behavior changed in a way that was magical, just like the wine. Best of all, I was out of the proverbial doghouse.
Turley Wine Cellars, located in Templeton, Calif., is one of a handful of producers that put zinfandel on the wine map. Their forward-style approach to winemaking not only set their zinfandel wines apart from the ho-hum, mass-produced plunk that dominated the market, but they actually set a new benchmark for what quality zinfandel should aspire to. The problem was that for a good chunk of time, demand was so high and production was so limited that most of their wines were only sold to members of their mailing list and, occasionally, a few lucky restaurants. But today, Turley winemaker Ehren Jordan makes zinfandel, and petite sirah, from at least 20 different vineyards scattered throughout central and Northern California, so the wines are more readily available through wine shops and specialty grocery stores.
Here are my favorite “hair of the dog” zinfandels that are now available in the D.C. metropolitan area. But be forewarned, many of these wines have high alcohol levels, hovering somewhere between 14.5 and 16 percent. Retail prices are approximate.
If you’re looking to stick your toe in the proverbial waters of Turley zinfandel, I suggest you start with the 2008 Turley Wine Cellars Old Vines Zinfandel ($30), produced from a blend of Turley’s vineyards located throughout California. This version is full yet soft, displaying gobs of big, sweet fruit in the mouth, including ripe cherries and red berries.
Another great way to get acquainted with these high-end wines is with the 2008 Turley Wine Cellars Juvenile Zinfandel ($30), which is produced from a collection of lots from Turley’s youngest vines, also located throughout California. This is a delicious, forward Zinfandel with good black cherry and berry fruit, cigar box, black pepper and dried herb characteristics.
One of my favorite single vineyard zins is the 2008 Turley Wine Cellars Duarte Vineyard Zinfandel ($45) from the Contra Costa region of California. The wine exhibits lots of dark cherry notes mixed with sweet cassis, black licorice and blueberry flavors in an expressive personality.
From the limestone soils of Paso Robles comes the 2008 Turley Wine Cellars Pesenti Vineyard Zinfandel ($50). It exhibits bright, fresh, sweet cherry and raspberry jam flavors on a medium body frame. The abundant acidity keeps both the alcohol and fruit in balance.
If you’re looking for a zinfandel to rock your world, the 2008 Turley Wine Cellars Zinfandel from the Dusi Vineyard ($55)
in Paso Robles, Calif., is for you. The nose features earthy aromas that lead to flavors of dark plum, blueberry liqueur and smoked meats in the mouth.
I did find one older vintage of Turley available in our area, and fortunately, it is the 2007 Turley Wine Cellars Zinfandel ($65) from the Mead Ranch located in the Atlas Peak appellation of Napa Valley. It boasts a beautiful, deep purple color and aromas of cedar and blueberry pie. Luscious flavors of ripe black cherries, baked plums and black licorice jump the palate on the front while subtle hints of bramble and earthiness soothe the back of the tongue on the long, beautiful finish.
