In the prior two columns, Cindy and I have described Napa Valley as part theme park and part family-supper-table hospitality. But there is also an exclusive side in Napa most visitors never get to experience.
This “country club” segment rarely is written about because the majority of the wines are only sold on an exclusive basis and winery appointments are either uncommon or nonexistent. But the morning of our third day in Napa did, indeed, find us with a rare opportunity to visit the inner sanctum of a world-renowned family-owned winery.
We headed up into the hills west of St. Helena, where a winding mountain road led us past Lake Hennessey and on to a private drive protected by an elaborate gate. A few moments after buzzing the winery, the gates swung open and we were allowed to pass onto the hallowed grounds of Colgin Cellars.
Owner Ann Colgin produces handcrafted wines from grapes grown on selected hillside vineyards. These exceptional sites, coupled with the highest-quality vineyard management (handled by legendary manager David Abreu) and state-of-the-art winemaking techniques, produces four remarkable wines that are available only through mailing list subscription.
We were met at the winery entrance by head winemaker Allison Tauziet, whose youthful appearance belies her extensive experience. She escorted us around the remarkable IX Vineyard property — including an eye-popping peek at the private cellar where a collection of older vintage Colgin wines are stored — before heading into the main building for our private tasting session.
I am a little reluctant to write about wines that are both expensive and difficult to find, but the experience is worth noting if just to illustrate the spectrum that exists in the world of family-owned wineries. However, if you ever do have the opportunity to try any Colgin wine, I hope it is the 2006 Colgin Cellars IX Estate Vineyard Red Wine. It is simply perfect. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and malbec, this wine exudes elegance. From the ethereal nose of black fruit, violets, dried sage and crushed stone to the beautifully layered flavors of blackberry, blueberry compote, black plum and dried herbs, this wine is simply sublime. Notes of roasted coffee and toffee linger on the tongue for well over a minute on the powerful, flawlessly structured finish.
Back down the mountain and back to Earth, our next stop included the remarkable pleasure of meeting Mary Rocca and her husband, Eric Grigsby, owners of Rocca Family Vineyards, located just outside the city of Napa. Mary, a former dentist, and Eric, still a practicing physician, share a passion for land, community and family. In 1999, Mary, a mother of four, decided to sell her practice in order to focus full-time on her work as a vintner. Together with winemaker Paul Colantuoni, Mary makes great wines using grapes from the 21-acre Grigsby Vineyard in the Yountville AVA, and the 12-acre Collinetta Vineyard in Coombsville. Rocca practices both organic and sustainable farming in order to bring the vines into natural balance with their environment and develop fruit with a sense of place.
Over dinner in their lovely home, we enjoyed a bottle of 2006 Rocca Family Vineyards Syrah ($45) that exuded scents of dark plum, blackberry, cocoa and black pepper on the fragrant bouquet. Flavors of black fruit and blueberry jam jumped out on the front of the tongue while subtle notes of black pepper filled in the back on the supple finish. Mary also produces a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) as well as the Bad Boy Red ($29), a bordeaux-style red featuring a picture of Eric on the label.
Our last morning in Napa concluded with a visit to one of the most famous names in family-owned wineries, Chateau Montelena. Bo Barrett and his father, Jim, began making wines at Chateau Montelena in 1972. The winery is probably best known for the extraordinary event that occurred at a competitive wine tasting in Paris in 1976, when the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay bested famous French wines when it was voted the best white wine by the French judges. History was made — as was a movie — and California wines were given legitimate status on the world stage.
We sat down with Bo to taste through several different varietal offerings. The one that caught the attention of our tongue was the 2006 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. Evidently, we are not alone in our love of this wine. Bo states that this cab is “purpose-built” to be a “New World” wine. It is big and rich up front, with expansive flavors of cassis, dark plum and black cherry, leading to a softer, more elegant and polished finish, where notes of earth and vanilla slide in. At $45, it is a remarkably seductive wine.
All in all, the trip was a great way to meet the families who continue to shape the many faces of Napa Valley. We look forward to getting to know more families in other regions in the future.
