As wine writers, we are always looking for the best of both worlds: where to take our three very-active boys — ages 11, 13 and 15 — while checking out the wine scene in a location abroad.
Fortunately, Maison de la France, the public relations arm that encourages French tourism, came to our rescue this year when we attended one of their press luncheons and decided that Paris would give us our proverbial cake and let us eat it too.
We picked an airline with a reputation for having the most comfortable coach seats (and also provided both individual in-seat entertainment systems — important for the boys, and access to power ports — critical for parents with laptops trying to stay ahead of deadlines), and found a lovely two-bedroom apartment in the city. The final price was less than half of what a hotel would have cost us and came with the added luxury of a small washer and dryer.
Our first stop was the Arch du Triumph where most people, our children included, are focused on climbing the 387 steps to the top.
The arch was originally commissioned by Napoleon in the 18th century to honor his troops, but it was not completed until well after he left town.
Don’t miss the opportunity to admire the tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the center of the arch or admire its magnificent grandeur from the Champs Elysees, Paris’ main drag. The Champs is lined with designer shops, car salons, wine shops and cafes. A stop at Paul for a fresh baked croissant is a must, as are the multiflavored macaroons (think fancy cookies) at Laduree.
Our first dinner in Paris was at a restaurant that is notorious for not taking any reservations; Relais L’Entrocote. This authentic steak house serves only steak and fries. As soon as were seated our waitress simply asked, “how do you want it cooked.” At 8 p.m., the line out the door moved relatively fast (about 10 minutes), but by the time we left an hour and a half later, the queue — populated mostly by Parisians — was heading around the block.
We headed out the next morning to experience Paris — really old Paris. We boarded a metro and headed for the Catacombs (metro stop Denfert-Rochereau).
As an aside, the metro in Paris is clean, remarkably efficient and is amazingly easy to use. If you’re going to be in Paris for more than a week, get the Orange Card, a pass that lets you go anywhere on the system without having to stop and buy individual fare cards.
The Catacombs date from the 17th century when mining the limestone for all of the buildings created these dark, winding tunnels under the city streets. When disease broke out from several of the decaying cemeteries around Paris, it was decided to exhume the bodies and relocate them in the abandoned mine. The bones, including skulls, were arranged in a “decorative” manner, lining the walls of the dank tunnels. It’s a bit macabre and not advisable for the squeamish or the claustrophobic, but the boys thought it was a grand way to start the day.
Following the long climb back up to daylight, we hopped a metro and made our way to one of the greatest landmarks of Christendom — Notre Dame. Stepping inside the massive cathedral, which was completed in 1345 after 200 years of construction, is like being transported back in time. Don’t miss the Rose window or the scale model of the cathedral, which shows all of the revolutionary-at-the-time flying buttresses. If you have the energy, take the 402 steps to the top of the bell tower for a great view of Isle de Cite and then reward yourself with a scoop — or two — of ice cream at Berthillon Glacier (31, Rue St Louis) on the adjacent Isle St. Louis. Don’t let the line out-the-door-and-around-the-
Next was the No. 1 tourist attraction in Paris: the Eiffel Tower. Try to visit the tower on a clear night — the views can be spectacular. Beginning at dusk, thousands of tiny strobe lights on the tower shimmer and sparkle, putting on a five-minute show for all of Paris at the top of each hour. After making our way back down we had a short walk to the many cafes that line the nearby Trocadero.
(The Vine Guy’s trip through Paris will continue next week. For previous columns by The Vine Guy, visit washingtonexaminer.com.)
