If you could harness the energy of Sparky Marquis, you could probably power a small island nation for a year and still have enough left over to fire up a winery or two. Fortunately, this left-handed and deft-handed winemaker has more than enough “spark” to run Mollydooker Winery, the fifth successful wine project he and his also left-handed wife and partner, Sarah, have started.
The legacy the Marquis’ (pronounced mar-kwis) have built together in the Australian wine community and in the world marketplace is unprecedented. Beginning in 1994, they consulted for Sarah’s parents’ Fox Creek winery, earning early acclaim. In 1998, they formed a consulting relationship that resulted in top-notch wines from Parson’s Flat, Henry’s Drive and Shirvington. A joint venture with importer Dan Philips resulted in the Marquis Philips label — and instant success.
Finally, a couple of years ago, the left-handers got a chance to produce wines under their own proprietary label: Mollydooker (Australian slang for a left-handed person). They’ve created a multitiered system for making and selling their wines, which range in price from delicious $20 wines in their “Lefty” series, all the way up to the other-worldly Velvet Glove, weighing in at $175.
But the most unique thing about this enterprise is the ability for the consumers to buy the wines from either your local wine shop or directly from the winery — even though it’s in Australia — via its Web site (www.mollydookerwines.com.au). The wines are shipped through its own importer, Grapes International (Grapes is an acronym for
great rates and people equals success).
Sparky recently blew through town faster than a Tasmanian devil, but I did get a chance to spend a few minutes with him learning more about his partnership and tasting the wines. Here are my favorites. Retail prices are approximate and are available at many area wine shops.
2006 Mollydooker The Boxer, Shiraz, South Australia $20
The whimsical label features a pugilist wearing two left-handed boxing gloves. Appropriate considering the punch this powerful shiraz delivers. Flavors of plums, blackberries and black olives glide over the front of the palate before delivering a wallop in the mid-palate. The amazingly long finish teases the back of the tongue with hints of vanilla and licorice.
2006 Mollydooker The Scooter, Merlot, South Australia $20
A pretty wine with loads of sweet, jammy black fruit that is delivered on a smooth, lush frame. Hints of toffee on the elegant finish are an unexpected treat.
2006 Mollydooker Two Left Feet, Shiraz/Merlot /Cabernet Sauvignon Blend, South Australia $20
Sarah loves to dance; Sparky dances like he has two left feet. But together they produce a masterful blend that is a tango for the tongue, featuring black plums, chocolate-covered cherries and hints of clove on the pretty, silky finish.
2006 Mollydooker The Maitre D’, Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia $20
A great value for cabernet fans, this version displays scents of plums, violets and eucalyptus on the nose. Flavors of sweet cherry cola, blackberries and black olives roll down the tongue, ending with a pleasant hint of mint on the medium-bodied finish.
2006 Mollydooker Gigglepot, Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia $50
Part of the “Party” series, this intense cabernet is so inky black, you can’t see through it. I’m willing to have my teeth stained, though, in order to enjoy the gorgeous flavors of jammy blackberries, dark plums, savory and pan drippings, all beautifully upheld by great structure. The lengthy finish, with notes of pepper and licorice, is seductive.
2006 Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy, Shiraz, South Australia $50
A classic shiraz with scents of menthol and pepper on the nose and loads of velvety black fruit on the palate. But it’s the chocolate and mint flavors on the smooth finish that makes me think of Thin Mint Girl Scout cookies. I bet this would be perfect with lamb chops.
2006 Mollydooker Carnival of Love, Shiraz, South Australia $80
I am seriously in love with this wine, a member of the “Love” series. A tribute to their relationship, the Marquis made this wine with passion. Stunning aromas of blackberries, violets, cinnamon and cassis fill the glass. The smooth and intense flavors of blackberry, plum, tar and pepper coat the entire tongue and leave room for a touch of vanilla on the brilliant finish.
2006 Mollydooker Enchanted Path Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Blend, South Australia $80
When you put the label of this wine side by side with the label of Carnival of Love, you get an old-fashioned movie poster, starring Sarah and Sparky. The same whimsical love goes into this high-end blend, offering perfumed aromas of chocolate, ripe plums and a touch of cassis. Blackberry liqueur and currant flavors coat the entire palate, but the real treat is the mocha and milk chocolate notes that shine on the extremely long, well-balanced finish. Wow.
2006 Mollydooker Velvet Glove, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia $175
This first-time vintage is made from only the finest fruit from a very select vineyard block. The huge bouquet of dark chocolate, cassis liqueur, violets and espresso leaps up and grabs your nose. The perfectly integrated flavors of blackberries, ripe plums, mocha and soft pepper live up to the wine’s name since they start out silky-smooth on the front of the palate and thendeliver a flawless one-two punch on the back of the tongue and through the long, beautiful finish.
