It took a big leap to go from toe-tapper to grape-stomper, but that is the graceful transition legendary dance performer Rodney Strong made in 1959 when he and his longtime dance partner, Charlotte Ann Wilson, married and moved to Tiburon, Calif., to begin a new life.
In 1962, Strong purchased vineyard land and an old winery in Windsor. His wine, made from estate-grown grapes, eventually garnered so much attention that he was able to raise enough equity to buy land in Sonoma County — which at the time was still known more for prune orchards than for grape vineyards.
Throughout the years, the vineyard operation grew. So did demand for investor return. As production picked up, many critics in the wine community felt the once-groundbreaking winery had compromised quality for quantity. So in 1979, Strong decided to invest in a young winemaker who could restore the winery’s reputation for quality.
Rick Sayre, who had just completed his ninth year as a winemaker at Simi, was ready for a change when Rod approached him about taking over the winemaking operations at his shop. It was also the same year that a young graduate student, Tom Klein, completed his MBA at Stanford University and began working for an international management-consulting firm that was hired to take a look at a well-known winery in Sonoma County. In a twist of fate, Klein got to meet Strong and Sayre, and evaluated their operation. He actually thought it had a lot of potential. He also enjoyed their wine.
Klein understood the nature of the wine business better than most because he was a third-generation California farmer and knew at the heart of making a great wine was growing great grapes. He also thought Rodney Strong Vineyards had tremendous potential to improve quality and regain its position as a leader in Sonoma County.
In 1989, Klein and his family purchased Rodney Strong Vineyards. Under the guidance of the Klein family, the winery once again became one of the most respected operations in Sonoma County, producing wines from the nearly 1,000 acres it owns in four Sonoma appellations; Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Coast. The family has invested more than $90 million in vineyard purchases and development, as well as state-of-the-art production facilities, barrels and barrel storage at the winery.
“We are committed to quality in every aspect at Rodney Strong Vineyards … and we are always seeking ways to fulfill this commitment,” Klein said.
I am happy to report the investment has paid off. At a dinner with Klein, I had the opportunity to sample several wines from the latest release. Retail prices are approximate.
2008 Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, Calif. ($12)
This bright white wine is crisp and fresh with loads of citrus flavors followed by waves of juicy guava and mango flavors. Notes of passion fruit and kiwi are prominent on the refreshing finish.
2007 Sonoma Vineyards Syrah, Sonoma Valley, Calif. ($13)
This is a “sister” venture also owned by Klein. The pretty nose features scents of blackberry, cassis and espresso. Very “juicy” expression of black fruit and dark chocolate on the mid-palate with a fresh, light-bodied finish.
2007 Davis Bynum Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Calif. ($22)
In 2007, Rodney Strong Vineyards purchased the famed Davis Bynum brand. The addition complemented the existing portfolio with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. The Chardonnay features notes of vanilla and toasty oak with flavors of yellow peach and apple. The medium-bodied finish is buoyed by hints of mineral and slate.
2006 David Bynum Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Calif. ($30)
Another gem from the Russian River, this has a fragrant nose of plum and mocha. The great balance shows off flavors of black cherry and red plum. Clove and spice notes highlight the finish.
2005 Rodney Strong Symmetry, Red Wine Blend, Alexander Valley, Calif. ($60)
A product of the “winery within a winery” concept, this classic Bordeaux blend is made from grapes that are hand-harvested from specific blocks within carefully selected vineyards. The final blend is a result of meticulous blending and aging. The result is a wine with a huge nose of baker’s chocolate and toasty oak. Prominent flavors of blackberry, cassis, spices and pepper on a silky frame with gorgeous balance.
2005 Rodney Strong Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Calif. ($75)
One of Klein’s pet projects was to produce a single-vineyard wine from meticulously farmed grapes and exemplary wine making practices. The wine is massive and brooding, with scents of cassis, bramble and spice on the expansive bouquet. The palate displays layers of flavor that comes in waves and features blackberry, spice, orange clove and dark espresso. Dark chocolate completes the complex, lengthy finish.
