A once-in-a-generation financial crisis might not be the best time to open a restaurant by Alain Ducasse, the international chef who redefined opulence at his eponymous New York restaurant earlier this decade (think jackets required, water sommeliers and three-course menus for $150).
Indeed, even that restaurant has now closed, Ducasse having decamped to the St. Regis hotel in New York, under the name Adour. Now, he’s done likewise in Washington, setting up shop at our own recently refurbished St. Regis.
As in New York, the project isn’t quite as formal as his earlier venture. Still, the celebrated chef — he was the first to hold three Michelin stars at three different restaurants simultaneously — has aimed to compete with any upscale dining experience in the city. The high-end architecture firm The Rockwell Group did the interior, and Ducasse tapped as chef Julien Jouhannaud, a veteran of Ducasse restaurants in Las Vegas and Monaco.
The Scene: The architects have created a flat-out gorgeous room — instantly one of the top spaces in the city. A delicate blend of old and new, the large, arched windows have been preserved, as has the 16-foot, carved wood-beamed ceiling. For contrast, the room is bookended by two stainless steel and glass walk-in wine cases, and a 20-foot banquette along one wall is upholstered in modern white leather. For a special occasion, ask to be seated in one of the romantic, curved booths that are recessed into the far wall.
The Pour: The wine program here is the domain of Ramon Narvaez, who came over from Marcel’s. He’s assembled a well-thought-out list that runs the gamut in both price points and styles. You’d like a Riesling by the glass? Well, they offer a German as well as an Alsatian. And two white Burgundies by the glass, thank you very much. Oh, and a 1991 Chateau d’Yquem dessert wine — for $125 by the glass.
The Taste: You wouldn’t exactly call Jouhannaud’s cuisine classical, but he prefers to keep the elements on a plate to a simple three or four, and largely eschews such modern temptations as foams and gels. In my journey through the menu, nothing was substandard; this is high-level cooking. But the “wow” factor varied wildly from dish to dish. On the plus side: the ricotta gnocchi with crispy prosciutto, wild mushrooms and seared lettuce. When the two dumplings arrived, I temporarily forgot what I ordered and thought the kitchen sent out some burrata cheese. It was that creamy. Mild, but with an unmatched mouthfeel. A small filet of duck breast was perfectly cooked, but it was the creamy, salty polenta on the side that really sang. Cod is a mild fish to be sure, but the olive-oil poached version here sacrificed too much flavor for its wonderful texture. You’re better off trying the veal sweetbreads with Swiss chard, or the diver scallops with cauliflower cream. You’ll also find creative desserts such as a bitter grapefruit and raspberry custard, and a gala apple soufflé. Both get the nod over a milk chocolate “sable,” which came across as no more than an oversized chocolate petit four.
The Touch: The suit-wearing servers here are the kind that let no detail go unnoticed and take pride in talking about the menu as if they prepared it alongside the chef. But like the dreaded “helicopter parents,” there are such things as helicopter waiters. During one visit, as I perused the wine list for five minutes, I was asked five different times by three different people if I had made a selection. And I could do without constantly being addressed as “Monsieur,” my fiancé as “Madame.” Enough already.
Don’t Miss: The freebies at the beginning and the end of the meal: perfect cheese gourgerers to start, a tray of addictive macaroons and artisinal chocolates to finish.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you’re worried about spending $300 on a meal as your 401(k) evaporates.
Why You Will Go: Because you’re a foodie, and you want to see how the latest celebrity chef to hit town compares to Wolfgang Puck, Eric Ripert and the rest.
If you go
Adour at the St. Regis
923 16th St. NW
202-509-8000
adour-washingtondc.com
Hours: Breakfast — 6:30 to 11 a.m. Monday-Friday, 7 a.m. to noon Saturday and Sunday; Lunch — 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner — 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $9 to $27; entrees $25 to $46; five-course tasting menu $95
Bottom Line: Another celebrity chef comes to Washington, and creates a temple of modern French cuisine in a stunning environment.
