Josh Bergström is a busy man. According to his business card, he is general manager, vineyard manager and winemaker of his eponymous winery. And given the number of certified biodynamic wines he produces each year, it’s hard to believe that he has time to meet with me on this perfect summer afternoon at his winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

When I arrive, he’s in the back, checking on barrels of pinot noir that he’s preparing to bottle. Shortly, he comes bounding around the corner, a broad smile on his boyish face that belies his true age, and shakes my hand with such force that I feel like a crushed grape.