City’s latest hot-spot eatery sometimes leaves diners wanting more Zentan, the new restaurant in the Donovan House Hotel, has a bit of a tortured, if short, history. When the boutique hotel opened last year, celebrity chef Todd English (of Olives fame) signed on to develop a pan-Asian restaurant in the space, dubbed Cha.
Despite hosting a celebrity-studded party during inauguration weekend, English ultimately pulled out, taking the name Cha with him. Brass from Thompson Hotels, which manages Donovan House, rechristened the space Zentan and tapped Sursur Lee of Shang in New York and the eponymous Lee in Toronto to helm the kitchen. After serving sushi only throughout the spring, Lee finally debuted the full menu in early June, maintaining the original pan-Asian vision.
The scene: This is spartan decor, even by modern, hipper-than-thou standards. A shade of dark ash pervades the room, from the walls to the tables to the fake-slate floors. The focal point is the large communal tables, carved from massive pieces of wood, over which hang dozens of (fake) candles. The Asian-themed decorative plates behind the bar are the only hint to the kitchen’s cuisine.
The pour: Upon sitting, we were informed that the wine list is still a work in progress. That’s putting it mildly. Only a half of a dozen offerings of red and white are poured, and none are particularly compelling. You’re better off checking out the sake list or the specialty cocktails.
The taste: Balance of flavors is an issue on too many of the items. Some, like stir-fried pearl noodles with rock shrimp and bay scallops or Chinese long beans were overwhelmingly salty, even by the standards of the soy sauce-laden cuisine. I was looking forward to a crudo of big eye tuna with preserved lemon and jalapeno, but the spicy peppers overwhelmed the delicate flavor of the prized fish. Ditto the lobster and eel sushi roll, in which the spicy mayo didn’t just add a layer of heat — it dominated the dish. And the tuna tartare, tasted only of vinegar, thanks to some overly pickled cucumber that replaced the menu’s promised pear. Not that there aren’t some gems here. A steamed, whole Hong Kong-style sea bass with chili-black bean sauce was a great blend of flavors and textures. Almond-crusted vegetable dumplings provided a new twist on a familiar dish. The three satays — shrimp, beef and chicken — are worth the price just for the array of delectable dipping sauces on the side. And other crudos — particularly the yellowtail with black bean, radish and yuzu — offer another winning way to experience raw fish.
The touch: Service is up and down. Sometimes your server is bright and knowledgeable; other times a request for recommendations elicits only a blank stare.
Don’t miss: The lunchtime bento boxes — a filling array of four dishes is a steal for only $16.
Why you won’t go: The sushi is priced competitively to area restaurants that seem to have a better grasp on the flavor palette, as well their wine lists.
Why you will go: Because this is the perfect season to have your after-dinner drink up on the Donovan House’s ultra-hip, Miamiesque rooftop.
