One of the wonderful perks of this profession, aside from tasting a lot of great wine, is meeting a good deal of wonderful people, including winemakers, importers, wine shop owners and ambassadors. Ambassadors? Well, when you’re based in D.C., sometimes politics and wine make strange bedfellows. But on closer examination, it’s not so strange.
Today’s embassy personnel no longer are devoted just to the art of diplomacy. They are also advocates for their country’s cultural, economic and agricultural resources. And when it comes to Chile, no one is more passionate about his country’s agricultural diversity than Chilean Ambassador Mariano Fernández. Since his arrival in Washington last July, Ambassador Fernández has hosted several events at his residence that have showcased the various agricultural products of his country. Luckily for me, that bounty included wine.
Chile has a rich history of wine making, which began in earnest there in the mid-1500s when missionaries introduced grapevines to the region in order to supply wine for religious ceremonies. During the next century, Chilean wine production became so successful that it had begun to negatively impact the amount of wine exported from Spain. So King Phillip II ordered a tax on the vineyards to secure Spain’s share of the world wine market.
In the later part of the 18th century, wine exports from Chile increased dramatically and began competing with the best wines from Europe in the international marketplace. Wine exports continued to increase following the introduction of traditional European varietals, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc and riesling to the country in 1851. The foreign vines adapted quickly to the climate and soils of Chile, particularly in the Mapio and Casablanca valleys. Today, they are thought to be the only pre-phylloxera (a virulent agricultural pest that destroyed the vast majority of the vineyards in Europe in the late 1800s) vine specimens in the world.
There are now more than 30,000 acres planted with grapevines in Chile and the focus of winemakers there has shifted from mass producing ordinary wine for domestic consumption to crafting high quality wine for export. Many of these artesian wines were on hand at the Ambassador’s residence for the trade to sample. Here are my favorites. Retail prices are approximate.
2006 Ventisquero Sauvignon Blanc, Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($13)
Don’t let the young vintage fool you — remember, Chile’s growing season has a six-month jump on north-of-the-equator vineyards. This wine is bursting with fresh fruit and ready to go. Fragrant scents of grapefruit and citrus dominate the nose and continue on in the mouth, where the crisp acidity brings out additional flavors of green melon. The minerally finish is a pleasant surprise and makes me wish I had a dozen oysters on the half shell to share it with.
2005 Vina Casas del Bosque Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($11)
Appealing nose of nectarine, banana and floral notes are joined in by flavors of pineapple and peaches on the evenly balanced finish. Just enough buttered toast notes sneak in at the end to warrant trying it with an assortment of soft cheeses.
2004 Falernia Syrah, Reserva, Elqui Valley, Chile ($15)
Located in the northern end of the country, the grapes from this valley produce a wine with a cedary nose reminiscent of Rhone-style syrahs. Fruit-driven flavors of red cherries and blackberries lead the charge upfront while subtle notes of tobacco, licorice and pepper bring up the rear on the well-rounded finish. A hearty stew or beef chili would fit the bill nicely with this wine.
2003 Echeverria Cabernet Sauvignon, Limited Edition, Central Valley, Chile ($20)
Rich and powerful in the mouth, this wine delivers structure and flavors found in wines twice the price. The addition of syrah and carmenère deliver scents of jammy black fruit and mint in the nose and lush flavors of ripe black cherries, black plums and crème de cassis that coat the tongue upfront. Prominent notes of vanilla and mint complete the elegant finish. Enjoy with grilled lamb.
2002 Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon “Elegance,” Mapio Valley, Chile ($35)
The Haras vineyard is located adjacent to a notable thoroughbred horse farm in the upper Mapio Valley. Plenty of racy flavors of blackberry jam, ripe black plums, dark cherries and tobacco that sprint across the palate. The remarkable structure carries notes of vanilla, licorice and tobacco with finesse all the way across the proverbial finish line. A remarkable pairing with goat cheese-stuffed tenderloin.
Let me know if you have a south-of-the-boarder favorite.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
