If your concept of Greek eating comes solely from watching “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” with its freewheeling meals, you had better take a food break at Kellari Taverna, where executive chef Anthony Acinapura will treat you to Greek cooking that demands respect. Acinapura, son of an Italian doctor who works in New York City, hails from a long line of devoted Italian cooks.
If you go
Kellari Taverna
1700 K St. NW
202-535-5274
Hours: Lunch — 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday; Dinner — 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily; Brunch — 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday
“I was in the kitchen at the age of 5,” he said, “with both my Italian grandmothers. One was from Calabria, and one was from Naples. I went with them to work in the gardens, go to market and work in the kitchen.” He added that his maternal grandmother taught him to make meatballs, stir gravies and watch chickens cooking.
Indeed, his childhood stories make it sound as if food was the focal point of this Italian family’s life. As he remembered, “I was always surrounded by food, it was always a passion. Our Sunday gathering were crazy, loud. Italians talking loudly until the food hit the table, and then there was silence.”
Yes, food had its early appeal, but as the son of a doctor, young Acinapura was expected to follow in his dad’s footsteps into medicine.
“I went into pre-med, he said, “and after 1 1/2 years, I said, ‘Dad, I can’t do this.’ I would walk out of the lectures and didn’t remember what was going on in class.”
He finally told his dad that all he wanted was to become a chef, and to be the best one he could be. Leaving the University of Denver, he attended hotel and restaurant management school, and with a degree in hand, worked around town in Steamboat Springs, Colo., doing every aspect of restaurant work. Finally, he was hired as a line cook, and the observant head chef told him he had a natural ability and passion — and that he needed to go to culinary school, the Culinary Institute of America.
“That was like going to summer camp,” he said. “It was so easy.”
As it turns out, Acinapura’s dad had a real treat for his chef son.
“Dad took me to David Bouley’s restaurant in New York, the No. 1 restaurant in New York for four years,” he said. “That was my first tasting menu, and it blew me away. Dad then took me to the kitchen, which was organized chaos, and I watched it all happen. Dad went up to the chef and started talking.
“He offered me a job,” he said, not knowing the chef was a patient of his father’s.
Acinapura externed there for four years, learning to talk to food, to understand farming principles and about the fabrication of animals.
“That was my master’s and my Ph.D.” he said.
Afterward, Acinapura worked at a number of Manhattan restaurants, including China Grill, before opening his own place in 2005. In 2008, Acinapura moved to Washington and helped open Potenza, and now finds his daily tasks are working quality fresh seafood in the Greek way at Kellari Taverna.
Q&A with chef Anthony Acinapura
What’s your comfort food?
It’s a tossup. When I was growing up, it was lasagna, pizza and Chinese food.
How do you get your inspiration?
By looking at the fish. Then going shopping, reading cookbooks, talking to my family and seeing my kids every day.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
I don’t like to go out, so I eat and stay home with the children and cook for the family. Otherwise, we may go to Full Key or Kaz Sushi Bistro.
What’s in your fridge?
Lots of milk, apple juice, cheese, salami, prosciutto, seltzer water. We have a freezer full of proteins. We keep the house stocked.
Who are your favorite cooks?
David Bouley and my grandmothers. They inspired me, and he showed me the light.
From the Chef’s Kitchen
Mediterranean Grilled Fagri
Fagri is Mediterranean pink snapper. A substitution is American red snapper or black sea bass. You will need a grill rack or cage for cooking this fish above the fire.
Serves 3
1 (3-pound) fagri, scaled and gutted
1 Tbsp. small capers for garnish
1 Tbsp. dried Greek wild oregano for garnish
1/2 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish
Latholemono Sauce
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1/2 Tbsp. dried mustard
1 tsp white pepper
1 tsp sea salt
6 saffron threads
Combine all the ingredients for the latholemono sauce in a blender and process until emulsified.
Prepare a charcoal fire and wait until the coals reach the white-ash stage. Or use a gas grill, set to medium-low. Score the fish by the back and belly bones, and wrap it lightly in foil. Place the fish on the rack or in the cage and grill for 10 minutes on each side. While grilling the fish, baste with latholemono sauce. After the fish is cooked, carefully remove from the rack or cage, and let it rest for 3 to 5 minutes to allow the fish to continue steaming. Then open up, debone and place on a hot plate. Garnish with the capers, oregano and parsley. Spoon latholemono sauce on the grilled fish and serve hot.
