Roasted vegetables are one of the most satisfying fall dishes to prepare. They’re colorful, fragrant and delicious, and loaded with nutrition. Roasting brings out the sweetness and full flavor of root vegetables that can seem rather bland and uninspiring by themselves.
David Joachim, co-author of “The Science of Good Food” and numerous other cookbooks, says roasting is one of the best ways to cook root vegetables, because dry heat develops flavor better than moist heat. During roasting, he explains, the starches and proteins in the vegetables react to produce the appealing brown coating that is often mistaken for caramelization. (True caramelization requires added sugar, says Joachim.)
At Canton’s Yellow Dog Tavern, chef-owner Anita Scheiding serves a variety of roasted vegetables, including cauliflower, pumpkin, winter squash and rutabaga.
“I enjoy roasting vegetables because it’s a great way to get all the flavor without utilizing too much fat,” says Scheiding. “The key to roasting is seasoning. I always use extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper.”
Andrew Thomas, chef at Donna’s in Charles Village, seasons his roasted vegetables with a garlic-infused oil. That way he can impart the vegetables with garlic flavor without using chopped garlic, which has a tendency to burn. Thomas suggests brushing the oil on the vegetables. “Don’t drown them,” he says.
To make the oil, sauté several whole cloves in a mixture of three parts canola oil and one part olive oil. Slowly simmer the garlic until the cloves begin to brown. Strain off the whole cloves and save the oil in a jar. The garlic can be used in another dish.
The chefs agree vegetables should be cut in 1-inch chunks or larger and placed in one layer on a baking sheet. Onions should be cut fairly thickly, so they don’t burn. Another option is to use small, whole onions, such as cipollini onions, or whole shallots.
Roasted root vegetables
(Serves 6)
>> I large onion, cut into 1-inch thick wedges
>> 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into wedges
>> 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
>> medium celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
>> 1 turnip, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks
>> 2 tablespoons olive oil
>> Salt and ground black pepper to taste
>> 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
Preheat the oven to 425. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss vegetables together. Add oil and toss to coat. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Spread out in a single layer. Roast in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Add garlic and continue roasting about five minutes more, until most of the edges of most of the vegetables have browned and they are uniformly tender but not mushy. Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate in a tightly closed container for up to one week.
From “The Science of Good Food,” by David Joachim and Andrew Schloss.
