As wine bars have exploded onto D.C.’s scene in recent years, their owners haven’t branched out much in the décor department. Most of our myriad new temples to the grape have hewn closely to the formula of low lighting, exposed brick and bottle displays — like a wine cave.
Among them are Adam Manson’s small-yet-popular Veritas, just north of Dupont Circle — a place where you can barely read the menu, it’s so dark.
But for his second wine-centric venture, Manson ran the other way. Enology, which opened this summer near the National Cathedral, is all windows and stainless steel. The marble bar and faux-leather barstools even are a modern white.
The Scene: The lengthy bar supports a vibrant singles scene, where groups of friends and co-workers gather for a glass or two. Down a few steps in the dining room is where you’ll find double-dating couples and a few familiar faces from the neighborhood (Jim Lehrer was there on my last visit).
The Pour: Other wine bars, most notably Cork on 14th Street, have emphasized hard-to-find European wines. Here, Manson also went against the grain, offering nothing but American bottlings. As you’d expect, California dominates, although you’ll find plenty to like from Oregon, Washington and New York state. The bottle list is heavy in the $40 to $70 price range, but you’ll find everything from a $35 Moon Mountain chardonnay to a $245 Sine qua Non syrah.
On the plus side, those wines are all stored at the ideal temperature — not too warm for reds, not too cold for whites. On the other hand, why does a place with 75 wines by the glass not pour tastes or half glasses? For that, you’ll have to content yourself with the many flights on offer. These $13 to $18 trios are cleverly categorized with names like “Pretty in Pink” (sparkling rosé) or “When in Rome” (Italian varietals made in America).
When it comes to beer and spirits, those are all made in the United States as well, which can get a little tricky when you’d like to order your favorite vodka or Scotch.
The Taste: At Veritas, the menu is confined mainly to cheese and charcuterie. Here, the owners branch out a bit, with mixed results. A root vegetable salad with feta was bright and fresh, and arugula with lemon was par for the course, but an orange and fennel salad was an acidic mess. And steer clear of the pizza-style flatbreads. Toppings like local mozzarella, peppered salami and basil sauce are appealing, but they sit atop an undercooked, spongy, flavorless crust. You can still choose from a pleasant selection of more than 15 cheeses (all American, again), plus cured meats and patés. Dessert comes in the form of artisanal chocolates by J. Chocolatier.
The Touch: Service can be uneven here. One day, your server knows the menu inside and out, but you can never find her. The next day, your waiter is hovering over your table, but he thinks a cab is a taxi.
Why You Will Go: For Enology’s many specials. Selected bottles of wine are half off on Tuesday. And they’ll knock two bucks off your drinks during happy hour (5 to 7 p.m., and all night on Monday).
Why You Won’t Go: Because you’re a pizza lover. Once the disappointing flatbread hits your table here, you’ll be gazing longingly across the street at the magnificent Two Amys pizza parlor.
If you go
Enology
3238 Wisconsin Ave. NW
202-362-0362
www.enologydc.com
Hours: 5 p.m. to 12:45 a.m. Sunday to Thursday; 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday
Prices: Three cheeses for $14; charcuterie two for $12; salads $8 to $12; flatbreads $10 to $11.
Bottom Line: Food is an afterthought at this sleek, sexy (and patriotic) wine bar.
