As wine bars have exploded onto D.C.’s scene in recent years, their owners haven’t branched out much in the décor department. Most of our myriad new temples to the grape have hewn closely to the formula of low lighting, exposed brick and bottle displays — like a wine cave.

Among them are Adam Manson’s small-yet-popular Veritas, just north of Dupont Circle — a place where you can barely read the menu, it’s so dark.