It is not uncommon to find the vineyards of California named for the Italian immigrants who settled in the fertile valleys and planted grapevines as far back as the mid-19th century. Names like Sebastiani, Mondavi, Giumarra, Foppiano and Pedroncelli dot the landscape and agricultural history books like spots on a Dalmatian. But what about an American of Italian heritage going to Italy and starting a vineyard. And not just any vineyard — one of the most pre-eminent vineyards in the most prestigious region in the country. It might surprise you to find out that is exactly what John Mariani Jr. and his brother, Harry, did when they founded Castello Banfi in the Brunello region of Montalcino, Tuscany.
In 1967, John Jr. and Harry, sons of famed wine importer John Mariani Sr., introduced the Italian wine, Lambrusco, to the U.S. market under the Riunite label, and it was an instant success. Within a few years, Riunite became the nation’s leading wine import and established their firm as one of the dominant wine import houses in the world. In 1978, the brother’s “impossible dream” was achieved when they returned to their grandparents’ homeland to establish the Castello Banfi vineyard estate. The Marianis gathered several of Europe’s most well-known winemakers to consult on the project and it was decided to introduce grape varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the area to take advantage of the various microclimates on the estate, a unique concept at the time.
They also concentrated on increasing the quality of the area’s native sangiovese grape for Brunello, identifying more than 160 clones of the varietal and then narrowing their selection down to just 15 complementary clones that are planted in specific ratios in the field to yield the most consistently outstanding Brunello. The state-of-the-art winery blends both modern and traditional techniques, including cellars with customized oak casks and barriques that maximize the ratio of wood surface area to volume of wine. Retail prices are approximate.
While Banfi is known mostly for its red wines, don’t overlook the 2008 Castello Banfi le Rime Toscana ($10) white wine, a blend of pinot grigio and chardonnay. Fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel, the wine possesses a bouquet of tropical fruit and a full complement of green melon, guava and white peach. The crisp finish embraces a citrusy backbone and refreshing acidity.
A wonderful entry-level introduction to the Castello Banfi family is the 2009 Castello Banfi Chianti Classico ($10). Made predominately from sangiovese, this wine is fresh and inviting with typical notes of cherry and red plum. The finish is vivid and delicious, with enough depth and finesse to belie its price.
If you want to taste how well the introduction of noble grape varieties works at Banfi, try the 2008 Banfi Centine Rosso ($10), a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The palate is vibrant and young, with flavors of bright red cherry and a touch of raspberry, balanced by good acidity and soft tannins. This is a wine that would feel right at home with either grilled red or white meat as well as pasta.
The 2007 Castello Banfi Belnero ($30) is a testament to the art of blending. Predominantly made from sangiovese clones, with bits of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, the nose radiates aromas of dark berry, violets and tobacco. Powerful flavors of black cherry, blackberry and roasted coffee fill the palate and blend in with notes of earthy cocoa on the persistent finish.
The flagship wine of the estate is the Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($65). Made from 100 percent sangiovese grapes, the 2006 vintage is a commanding-yet-refined wine with aromas of red plum and tobacco and flavors of red cherry, vanilla and spice. The finish has characteristic abundant acidity and excellent concentration.
