In 1976, Dan Duckhorn — a Northern California native — was a financial industry entrepreneur who was working with an investment firm in Napa Valley. When the firm decided to divest a nursery operation in Napa Valley, Dan, his wife, Margaret, and a small group of investors, decided to step in and purchase 10 acres in Napa. This began an adventure that would grow and excel for more than three decades and expand into three brands.
Duckhorn fell in love with merlot at an early stage and knew that he wanted to plant it in Napa, so he decided to buck the conventional wisdom of the day by attempting to make a world-class merlot wine in California. Duckhorn Vineyards quickly developed a reputation for producing some of the best merlot based wines in the country. Noted wine columnist Frank Prial dubbed Dan with the nickname, “Mr. Merlot.”
But today, fans of Duckhorn know that the name means more than just merlot. Duckhorn’s cabernet sauvignon has been produced alongside his famous merlot since the first harvest back in 1978 and has always been a stellar wine. Then in 1994, Duckhorn Wine Co. started Paraduxx — a play on Dan’s last name — which produces red wine blends featuring cabernet and zinfandel. Three years later, Goldeneye was formed to produce pinot noir from Anderson Valley.
Of course, with that much wine to make, not all of the grapes come from estate-owned vineyards. Duckhorn also sources grapes from quality vineyards that have to meet very specific and stringent guidelines, including low crop yields — usually three to four tons per acre — and harvesting by small blocks. In addition, the winemaking team uses a variety of barrels made by 13 different cooperages and 25 different types of oak. That kind of commitment gives the winemakers a big advantage when it comes to producing wines that are consistent vintage to vintage and true to their character.
Duckhorn recently was in town as the featured winery at first Capital Wine Festival vintner-hosted dinner series. This remarkable series is the sister event of the popular Boston Wine Festival, now in its 21st season. Each winemaker dinner features a custom four-course dinner prepared by the newly reinvented Jockey Club’s chef, Levi Mezick. Next year’s events will take place at the Fairfax Hotel on Embassy Row. Grab tickets early to enjoy quality time with winemakers and great food.
Here are my favorite wines from the Duckhorn lineup. Retail prices are approximate.
2008 Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Calif. ($30)
This is a great way to get any evening started. The 25 percent semillon that is blended in provides notes of passion fruit and pineapple on the aromatic nose. Mouth-filling flavors of ripe apple, pear, pineapple and guava are kept in balance by the bright acidity. Notes of vanilla and citrus linger on the beautiful finish. This wine would also pair beautifully with fresh seafood or oyster on the half shell.
2007 Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Calif. ($55)
A dark, brooding pinot, full of cinnamon, nutmeg and orange peel on the aromatic nose. Rich flavors of dark cherry, red plum, allspice and cloves play out over the palate and the finish, where hints of red licorice gently slide in. This was a perfect match with the steelhead salmon that was served with it.
2006 Paraduxx Napa Valley Red Wine, Napa Valley, Calif. ($50)
The unique blend of 60 percent zinfandel, 32 percent cabernet sauvignon, 6 percent merlot and 2 percent cabernet franc provides both bright fruit and great structure. Aromas of red cherry and peppery spices dominate the bouquet while juicy flavors of plum, boysenberry and vanilla intertwine on the medium-bodied frame. Subtle tannins provide a nice backbone to the finish, where notes of pepper and black cherry glide in.
2004 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot Three Palm Vineyard, Napa Valley, Calif. ($100)
Each year, small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot are blended into this flagship merlot. This vintage features scents of dark chocolate, cherries and candied ginger on the nose. The palate has a core of dark fruit — predominantly black plums, dark cherries and black boysenberries — and baking spices. Notes of vanilla and toffee work their way in on the massive finish. This wine is definitely still on the young side, so consider cellaring it for five or six years or decant it six hours before serving it.
2005 Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($78)
While this wine was not served at the dinner, I did have the opportunity to taste it recently and wanted to include it since it is so remarkable. Cabernet franc and merlot are blended in to provide outstanding balance and depth. Aromas of blackberry, cassis and blueberry liqueur fill out the fragrant nose. Expansive flavors of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum are layered over the entire palate and supported by firm tannins and solid acidity. The powerful, well-structured finish features lovely notes of vanilla and tobacco.
