Baltimore native John Shields is a walking trifecta. He?s an award-winning cookbook author, host of PBS?s “Coastal Cooking with John Shields” and chef-owner of Gertrude?s at Baltimore Museum of Art ? named for his grandmother, Gertrude Cleary of Baltimore.
Shields studied at the Peabody Conservatory of Music but soon learned he was meant to make music in the kitchen.
Q: Which plate at Gertrude?s screams John Shields?
A: I?ve always really got into the Maryland pan-fried chicken. It?s a little bit more complicated [than traditional pan-fried chicken]. I worked on it for years here and in California. People love it, and it?s become a staple of my repertoire.
Q: How did your grandmother influence your career?
A: She was the matriarch of the family. She grew vegetables and all kinds of foods in the back of her row house in east Baltimore. She cooked for businessmen?s luncheons at a church to raise money for the church. From the time I could see over her work table, she would have me with her and all the people stringing beans, husking corn, peeling potatoes. I loved the excitement and the camaraderie and pleasing people by feeding them and making them happy. She gave me a reverence for the food. She respected it and would get excited every season. She had a wonderful sense of anticipation. She was great.
Q:Have any insider tips for restaurant dining?
A: If you want to try a new place or a restaurant that?s not doing a lot of business and you?re going to order something that?s sensitive like fish or a nice cut of meat, look for it on the specials as opposed to the regular menu. Generally, the quantity of product turns much more quickly if it?s a special.
Q: What?s your favorite meal?
A: Everyone at the restaurant laughs, and it?s crazy, but I like a baked potato and slightly overcooked broccoli with a little bit of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon with apple sauce. It?s something from my youth. Then I add a protein. You can do it with a crab cake or piece of fried chicken. I do love that.
Jo-Jo’s Curried Crab Dip
Serves about 8
1/2 cup dried currants
Boiling water, as needed
1 pound cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons Madras curry powder
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/3 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup minced green onions or chives
1/3 cup finely diced red bell pepper
1 pound backfin or claw blue crabmeat
Crackers or gingersnaps for serving
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
In a small bowl place the currants and just enough boiling water to barely cover. Let stand for 15 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid, and put the currants aside.
In a large bowl combine the cream cheese, curry powder, mayonnaise, coconut milk, green onion, and red bell pepper. Beat until smooth and somewhat creamy. Mix in the crabmeat, currants, and 2 tablespoons, or less, of the reserved currant liquid.
Transfer the mixture to a greased casserole dish and bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Serve hot or warm with melba rounds, water crackers, or ginger snaps.
QUICK TIPS FROM JOHN SHIELDS
>> Keep it simple. Instead of overextending yourself by tackling overproduced dishes for the holidays, Shields recommends finding a simple recipe with local, seasonal ingredients. “It takes the pressure off, and you don?t buy things that you?ll never use again.”
>> Get friendly with fish. Most of the fear in cooking fish lies in thinking you aren?t going to cook it enough, Shields said. “Because of this, people tend to overcook it. But give it a shot.”
>> Bring a fresh bushel of oysters and shucking knife to your next holiday party. “You and a strong-wristed friend will be the most popular people in the room.”
IF YOU GO
Gertrude?s at the Baltimore Museum of Art
» Where: 10 Art Museum Drive, Baltimore
» Info: 410-889-3399

