Nestled in the shadow of the Mount Lofty range of South Australia lies one of the most idyllic places in the Southern Hemisphere: the Adelaide Hills. Located just 30 minutes east of the capital city of South Australia, Adelaide, the region developed its winemaking roots, so to speak, back in the mid 1800s. Rumor has it that a case of wine from the region was sent to Queen Victoria in 1844 and was well received.
The area is blessed with an intricate network of valleys and vales that provide an incredibly diverse range of slopes and soils in which to grow a variety of wine grapes. The cooler climate favors more delicate wines made from grapes such as Riesling, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. However, heartier varietals planted higher up on the slopes can take advantage of the warm Australian sunshine to produce luscious cabernet sauvignon and shiraz wines.
Situated at the eastern edge of the region, just south of the historic township of Macclesfield, are the picturesque vineyards of Longview. The name Longview is derived directly from the panoramic views of Lake Alexandrina as well as the stunning vistas of the surrounding countryside, referred to as the Coorong.
Originally the land began its life as a dairy farm. In 1995, founder Duncan McGillivray planted the first vines on just over 100 acres. Today, they have expanded to around 220 acres. The predominately northeast-facing slopes and valleys, combined with the cooler climate and state-of-the-art winemaking techniques, produce wines that are consistently well balanced and enjoyable.
In February, Longview Vineyard underwent a change of ownership. The Saturno family, longtime residents of South Australia with a 30-year history in the food, wine and hospitality industry, took over the enterprise. Brothers Mark and Peter left lucrative careers in New York City — Mark was a Broadway actor and Peter was a successful wine distributor — to come home to manage the operation with the help of family friend, Denis Rossetto.
I had the pleasure of sampling several wines from the Longview portfolio recently when Peter Saturno was in Washington sharing samples of his vineyard’s most recent releases. Retail prices are approximate and are subject to change. The wines are distributed locally by the Country Vintner (www.countryvintner.com).
2006 Longview “Iron Knob” Riesling, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($16)
Named for the abundant iron stone in the vineyard, the wine has a classic “petrol” nose with hints of grapefruit and lime. The palate exhibits a clean, minerally frame with prominent notes of apricot, nectarine and citrus. The finish is clean and refreshing. This would pair well with steamed Dungeness crab.
2007 Longview “Whippet” Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($19)
A pretty nose of cut grass, passion fruit, honey and lemon, the theme continues on the palate where flavors of melon and grapefruit join in. The finish is bright and balanced and hints of lemon and lime provide a bracing touch. Great with oysters on the half shell.
2006 Longview “Blue Cow” Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($20)
If you’re someone who drinks “anything but chardonnay,” this is the chardonnay for you. The wine only receives 25 percent oak treatment so the natural beauty of the chardonnay fruit shines through with lovely apple fruit filling up the center of the palate. Notes of apricot, nectarine and lime glide in on the beautifully balanced finish with just the right touch of acidity. This wine is just waiting for a poached lobster to sidle up next to.
2006 Longview “Yakka” Shiraz, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($20)
Many wine consumers think of shiraz when they think of Australia and this wine gives them reason to keep on doing so. The peppery nose nearly shoots out of the glass, where it’s joined by scents of vanilla, tobacco and cocoa. The juicy, full flavors of blackberry, cherry, chocolate and spices are amazingly supple for a wine this big. More black pepper makes an encore on the lush finish. Enjoy it with a roasted rack of lamb.
2006 Longview “Devil’s Elbow” Cabernet Sauvignon, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($20)
This wine is a fine example that Australia isn’t just for shiraz anymore. Scents of black cherry, plum and spice are featured on the aromatic bouquet. Dusty tannins — ala Rutherford Bench — frame flavors of plum, tobacco, leather and dried herbs on the well-balanced frame and provides a finish that is both rich and supple at the same time. This would be a great wine to try with beef short ribs.
2004 Longview “Black Crow” Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($20)
I never would have believed it if I had not tried it: nebbiolo from Australia — and a darned good one too. Fragrant nose of cherry, rose petals, smoke and tar waft gently on the nose. Flavors of cherry, rosemary, toasty cedar and pepper are finely tuned and supple on the tongue. Hints of mineral play on the soft finish and add a touch of complexity. Great with a bowl of pasta.
