Final part in a two-part series. Perched above the Atlantic Ocean is the Old Head Golf Links, where duffers like Tiger Woods and Jack Nicholson summon the golf gods. We enjoy a casual lunch of cod and chips on the outdoor patio of the Lusitania Bar overlooking the sea where if you’re lucky you’ll see one of 15 species of whales. The tony club has recently added contemporary suites and a spa for overnight guests.
Back at Castlemartyr, a massage and facial before a short walk into the village of Straffan to Pat Shortt’s Pub for a farm-style dinner and a rollicking evening of traditional Irish folk music. A fish chowder of ling, haddock and salmon; beef braised in Beamish stout; and apple rhubarb crumble accompany pints of black-and-tans, made with half Guinness stout and half Smithwick’s ale.
