There I was, hunkered down in a cold, shallow ditch, cowering behind a strategically situated bale of hay that is supposed to be my bunker. There were three 11-year-old boys outflanking me to my left and right. Any moment, a hail of paintballs would pelt me like a duck in a shooting gallery and I would be out of the game. And not a moment too soon. Ever sinceI took to the field this chilly winter day to participate in the birthday party of my son’s best friend, all I can think about is warming up with a glass of Port — that delicious Portuguese elixir that has warmed other countless souls for centuries.
Its roots go back to the 17th century, when Great Britain declared war on France, thus cutting off the Brits’ supply of fine wine. The British promptly turned to friendly Portugal, where they decided to add brandy to barrels of wine during fermentation in order to keep it fresh for its long journey down the Douro River to the port town of Oporto and then back to England and Scotland. This “fortification” created a sweet wine — thanks to the abundant residual sugars — whose noticeable fruit was kept in check by the high alcohol levels — perfect for a chilly day.
It is important to note that “Port” actually denotes a place of origin and a type of designation, not a specific varietal of grape. The Douro region, where the Port grape varietals are grown, hugs the formidable Serra do Marao mountain range, which begins 40 miles from the shore and races up to the Spanish border, almost 100 miles away. Its widest point is no more than 16 miles across. The rocky terrain provides plenty of stress for the three major grape varietals: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.
As for the types of port, there are several different styles, including a white port that is gaining popularity here in the U.S. All Port wines are a blend of several varietals and are crafted by each “house” to achieve a particular style, similar to the practice in Champagne. Here are four of the most popular types of red Port wine along with brand recommendations. Retail prices are approximate.
TAWNY
This nonvintage wine is aged in wooden casks and is the product of several blends (to maintain a consistent “house” style). They are generally older and more elegant than their younger ruby sibling.This style provides the perfect foil as either a dessert wine or an aperitif. The Taylor Fladgate Special Tawny ($15) is wonderfully versatile. Available at The Wine Specialist and Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, both in the District.
PORT WINES WITH INDICATION OF AGE
These are usually tawny wines that are better than average as approved by the Port Wine Institute. They will denote a bottling date along with an indication of their character by the age on the label: 10 years old, 20 years old, 30 years old and 40 years old. They have a tendency to possess more mellow fruit characteristics and have a smoother mouth feel to them than the aforementioned Tawny. Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny ($35) or Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny ($55) are both worth the trip to Schneider’s of Capitol Hill.
L.B.V. (LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE)
This also is the Port of one single harvest. It is produced in a good-quality year from a single harvest; they are bottled approximately between the fourth and sixth year of age. The label will show not only the year of the harvest, but also the date of bottling and the designation L.B.V. Try the 2000 Graham’s L.B.V. ($23) with a wedge of Stilton blue cheese. Available at Circle Wine & Liquor in the District and Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria.
VINTAGE
Vintage Ports account for only 2 percent of all Port wine produced. They are highly regulated, including the obscure law that they must be bottled between “July 1st of the second year following the harvest and June 30th of the third year, counting from the year of the harvest.” Port houses do not declare a vintage every year, but only in the best grape-growing years. The label will simply say “Vintage.” They usually possess a deep rich red color and are full-bodied. There is no better way to spend time after a big meal that with a glass of vintage Port, a roaring fire and a good book. Since vintage Ports develop house style, most people have a favorite. In the officially declared 2003 vintage, I prefer Fonseca ($100) and Taylor Fladgate ($100), both available at MacArthur Beverages and Calvert Woodley in the District and Total Wine and More in McLean.
Next time you’re looking to come in out of the cold — paintball stains optional — considering warming up to a glass of Port.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
