Italian enchantment in Logan Circle

For many years, Ristorante Tosca in Penn Quarter has been one of downtown’s top destinations for fine Italian cooking. So it was with some excitement that the Logan Circle neighborhood welcomed Tosca’s new little brother, Posto, late last year.

Owner Paolo Sacco sought to establish a laid-back Italian dining room, but the influences from Tosca, his flagship, are everywhere. Tosca’s chef, Massimo Fabbri, helped write the menu, and Posto executive chef Matteo Venini is himself an alumnus of Tosca. Sacco even relied on Kathy Morgan, the former sommelier at Tosca, to compile the wine list.

The scene: The space was initially converted from an auto showroom into the now-defunct Viridian, and Sacco strove to de-emphasize the space’s uberindustrial character. Blond wood veneers have augmented the cold concrete and steel. Gone are the rotating art exhibits on the wall, replaced by paintings of the Italian country. One thing will be familiar to visitors of Viridian, however: the noise. Despite the eggcrate foam on the bottoms of the tables, people must shout at peak times to even hear someone sitting next to them.

The pour: Like its sister restaurant, the wine list here is a winner. Well-priced, most bottles fall within the $40-to-$60 range. And at that level, why not try one of its unique offerings, such as a Grenache blanc from Spain or a New Zealand merlot?

The taste: It’s tough not to be tempted by the pizza oven, which occupies a prominent corner of the room. Resist the temptation. The crust is bland, and far too doughy and thick. You¹re better served turning your attention to the pastas, which Venini makes in-house. Try the rich tagliatelle with pheasant ragout; the spaghetti tossed in a light cream sauce with scallops, shrimp and crispy prosciutto; or spinach-walnut tortelli with parmesan cream sauce. Venini also has a deft touch with lighter dishes. Beet salad gets a crunchy

lift from crushed pistachios. A salad of capers and tomatoes adorns a light swordfish carpaccio. And Venini’s baby chicken with braised black kale and lemon butter sauce will make you rethink the common poultry.

The touch: Servers here know their menu, and they sure try hard (a busboy may even help you with your coat!). But pacing can be uneven, which means the occasional wait of a half-hour or more between courses.

Don’t miss: The braised veal cheeks with sautéed spinach — comfort food rarely gets better in winter.

Why you won’t go: Like some other notable dining rooms in Logan Circle, Posto doesn¹t take reservations. This means unless you arrive early, you may end up waiting awhile for a table.

Why you will go: For the value. More often than not here, you can find high-quality cooking at a fraction of downtown prices.

If you go

Posto

1515 14th St. NW

202-332-8613

postodc.com

»  Hours: Monday to Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5-11:30

p.m., Sunday 5 to 10 p.m.

»  Prices: Appetizers $6 to $12; pizza $11 to $14; pasta and main courses

$15 to $22

»  Bottom Line: The owners of Tosca fill a hole in D.C. with solid,

midpriced Italian food.

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