Formerly an honor student and an Eagle Scout, Albany native Patrick Carroll, executive chef of Clyde’s of Reston, is as clean-cut and modest as anyone on the current cheffing circuit in D.C. That he is passionate — almost driven — by his love for all things culinary clearly derives from his childhood, when kitchen tasks began early on. That’s when he helped his grandmother, who was managing the kitchen of a seniors’ assisted living residence. “That was my ‘daycare,'” he says. “Peeling potatoes and onions.” That’s also when he cooked in the Scout’s cantina. And that’s when, in high school, he signed up for cooking courses.
| If you go |
| Clyde’s of Reston |
| Where: 11905 Market St. (Town Center), Reston |
| Info: 703-787-6601 |
| Hours: Lunch, Mon. to Sat., 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Dinner, Mon. to Thurs. 4:30 to 10 p.m., Fri., Sat. to midnight; Brunch, Sun. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Dinner, 4 to 10 p.m. |
With his agenda in place, Carroll eventually enrolled in Johnson and Wales. “I kept cooking from there,” he says. “I got an externship in France and Ireland, and then I went to George’s in the Cove in California.” His resume reads like a travelogue, with kitchen jobs in Albany, Louisville, La Jolla, North Miami, and finally, to Broadlands, Virginia.
“My brother asked me to come visit him in Sterling,” he says. “I got here when Clyde’s was just opened in Ashburn. I found that Willow Creek (the Clyde’s at Willow Creek Farm restaurant) really catered to a family crowd.” Working as the sous chef there for 3 years readied him for the job at Clyde’s of Reston, a smaller but busier restaurant. Now in charge of menu planning and changes, Carroll makes seasonal modifications. But he has help. “I get my sous chefs inspired,” he says.
Hoping that his parents come to dine at the restaurant someday, Carroll reflects on his career choice with an honest appraisal of a chef’s job. “Some days I scratch my head and wonder why I am a chef,” he says. “There are no big days off and it is very demanding. But I stay a chef because I like to eat. In cooking, there is always something new. It never gets boring. It is fun to train new chefs.”
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
The food my Grandmother made: mashed potatoes and roast chicken. And my dad’s spaghetti. When I am at home, I use family recipes. I grow tomatoes and jar them for the winter.
What is your favorite dessert?
Pistachio ice cream. I love its sweet, nutty flavor and creamy texture, especially when it’s made in-house.
Where is your favorite place in the world?
My bed. Asleep. Getting rest. Paris was great, and Ireland relaxing…Venice was very nice.
Who is your favorite chef in the world?
My grandmother, because she got me started. Without her, I may be eating PB&J sandwiches. Then Anthony Bourdain. I love his rawness.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
The Goodstone Inn in Middleburg, though it depends on what I am feeling like. Then 1789 Restaurant in D.C. and the Wine Kitchen in Leesburg.
Recipe
Cider-Braised Berkshire Pork Belly with Apple Compote
Serves 4
This dish is great when served with spaetzle and braised cabbage.
Pork Belly
2 pounds pork belly, preferably Berkshire
4 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
? teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons canola oil
? Spanish onion, diced
1 quart apple cider
1 quart chicken stock
Apple Compote
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
? cup diced white onion
3 apples, preferably local, diced
? cup dried cranberries
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Salt and ground pepper to taste
Rub the pork belly with the sugar and seasonings, and score the fat. Refrigerate in a covered container for 24 hours. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Heat a skillet over medium heat, and add the oil. Sear the fat, or scored, side of the pork. Place it in a large pot, cover the pork with onion, garlic, apple cider and chicken stock. Braise for 3 hours.
Meanwhile, to make the apple compote, melt the butter in a skillet over low heat, add the onions and sweat for 3 to 4 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the apples and cranberries and saut? for 2 minutes. Add the brown sugar and apple cider vinegar, stirring well, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
