Connecticut native Brian Stickel, executive chef of Clyde’s of Tysons Corner, has a family member who quite possibly played the defining role in his career choice. “My grandmother had a cooking show in West Virginia,” he says. “And my mom, who is German, cooks very well.” Surrounded by cooks at home, Stickel naturally worked in restaurants, both in the front of the house and in the kitchen. “I learned about restaurant camaraderie,” he says. “It gave me a real rush.” But while he was a history student at the University of Connecticut, Stickel heard a comment that changed his life. Watching him cook at home, friends asked, “Why don’t you do this professionally?”
When he was accepted at the Culinary Institute of America, he says, all rules and techniques made sense. “I understood why I was taking these classes,” he says. And as a further incentive to embrace the culinary life, he externed in Napa Valley at the restaurant Pinot Blanc under chef Joachim Splichal. “It was a cool place to hang out,” he says.
Upon returning to the East Coast, Stickel’s work landed him in various D.C. area restaurants, including Clyde’s of Georgetown, 1789 Restaurant, the Inn at Little Washington, Clyde’s at Gallery Place, and finally, out in Tysons.
| IF YOU GO |
| Clyde’s of Tysons Corner |
| » Where: 8332 Leesburg Pike |
| » Info: 703-734-1901 |
| » Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday; dinner, 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday |
Confronted with the challenge of attracting business in a congested locale, Stickel has come up with some winning ideas. “I plan to make this place fun,” he says. “I am opening up its oyster bar, and altering the menu slightly … oysters are a big deal.”
But the restaurant experience must be more than just about the food, he believes. “I see it is the whole experience, like someone coming to your house,” he says, noting that is key to keeping customers happy.
In keeping with the whole Clyde’s Restaurant Group’s philosophy — Clyde’s was among the first restaurant groups to initiate the farm-to-table movement more than 27 years ago — Stickel sources his produce locally and gets his inspiration from what comes in to the kitchen. “I look at the farmer’s vegetables, like Tuscarora farm,” he says. “If I get 14 cases of asparagus, I need to do something with it.”
His professional commitment to incorporating freshly grown vegetables into the menu has influenced his private life as well. “I started my own garden in South Arlington,” he says. “Last year we grew more than 100 tomato plants. We ate tomatoes until we had sores in our mouth. … We are doing this organically. You really hate seeing bugs, so you really appreciate what organic farmers go through.”
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Pizza. Frank Pepe’s coal-oven pizza in New Haven. My mom used to make after Thanksgiving a turkey soup using the carcass and adding spaetzle dough right into the soup. And a bowl of pho from Pho 75 in Arlington.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
2 Amy’s back bar. Thai Square, 4 Sisters. The older I get the less impressed I am with super-fancy food.
What’s in your fridge?
Beer, a slab of bacon, noodles, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella. Otherwise, I buy the food fresh each day.
Who is your favorite chef?
Thomas Keller [French Laundry] has always done an amazing job. I like chefs who are down to earth. No yelling, not an absolute dictator. John Guattery [Clyde’s corporate chef], who is cooking locally.
What would you most like to do with a year of leisure?
Go to Italy to cook.
Recipe
Pan Seared Sea Scallops Wrapped in Virginia Ham
Serves 4
8 sea scallops
4 slices Virginia ham, preferably Surryano Farms Ham, halved lengthwise
4 tablespoons butter
1 leek, dark green top only, thoroughly rinsed and sliced
1 bunch parsley, leaves only
2 Tbsps vegetable oil
8 to 16 morel mushrooms, depending on size
2 Tbsps minced garlic
1 bunch local asparagus, tips only
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Basil leaves, very thinly sliced
Wrap each scallop with a slice of ham, and secure it closed with toothpicks.
To make the leek sauce, in a skillet over low heat melt 2 tablespoons butter, and add leeks. Cook about 5 minutes, or until tender. Add 4 tablespoons water and bring to a boil. Turn off heat and fold in parsley leaves until wilted. Transfer to a blender, and starting on low speed, process at increasingly high speeds. Season sauce with salt and pepper and set aside.
Preheat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes. Season scallops with salt and pepper, coat bottom of pan with the vegetable oil. and carefully add scallops to the skillet. Cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip scallops over, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Remove scallops from the skillet, and set aside. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Cook 2 minutes and add asparagus tips. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper, and cook until asparagus is slightly al dente. Stir with a spoon to scrape up any caramelization left over from scallops.
To serve, spoon some leek sauce onto center of serving plate. Place 2 scallops on top of the sauce. Spoon the mushrooms and asparagus over top of the scallops. Leave any leftover butter in the skillet and stir in the basil. Sprinkle this around each plate.
