It’s cold outside. Winter has hit Washington like a snowball in the face. Even the dog doesn’t want to go outside and he wears a permanent fur coat. When it gets this cold, there’s only one thing a wine lover can do: Drink big red wines. And the biggest of them all is syrah.
Whether you say sirah, syrah or shiraz, nothing warms the soul quite like the dark red wine made from one of the top 10 grown grape varietals in the world. Although its origin is a bit of a mystery — one legend claims that the grape is named for the famous Persian city of Shiraz, while another suggests that Roman Emperor Probus brought the wine from Syracuse (thus the name syrah) A.D. a couple of centuries — there is no mystery as to its popularity.
Recent DNA evidence shows that syrah is originally a cross of two relatively unknown varietals: dureza and mondeuse blanche, found in the northeast region of France. Today, it can be found in the warm, sunny climates of Argentina, Australia (where it is known as shiraz), California, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa, Spain, Uruguay and Washington state to name a few. On its own, syrah produces single varietal wines of singular distinction but it is also a great team player in legendary blends (i.e. Chateauneuf du Pape). Of course, the French wine regions of Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas are famous for their syrah wines — the best fetch more than $500 per bottle — but many enthusiasts believe that Australia — particularly McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Barossa Valley — and California have caught up with the Old World in terms of quality and “ageability.”
Regardless of what region the syrah label flies under, you can count on wines that can show power and finesse at the same time. A dear friend of mine once described syrah as “an iron fist in a velvet glove.” While the characteristics can vary widely based on soil and climate, the general traits include darker fruit flavors (blackberry and plum) with notes of mocha, roasted coffee, tobacco, chocolate and, of course, black pepper. Winemaking techniques can also impart flavors of toasted oak and vanilla. I think that they are best enjoyed on cold nights with heartier fare such as stew, grilled steaks and game, but I have been known to drink them all year long.
Here is list of my favorite syrahs from around the world. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Mollydooker “The Boxer” Shiraz, Australia ($25)
One of the best values in shiraz with flavors of blueberry, black cherry and chocolate on the well-balanced frame. The medium finish features rich mocha and pepper notes.
2002 Columbia Winery “Red Willow” Syrah, Yakima Valley, Wash. ($28)
A great value in a big syrah. Aromas of spicy cherry and violets fill the bouquet while flavors of blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry on the front end of the palate integrate with notes of vanilla and spices on the smooth, well-rounded finish.
2006 Pax Wine Cellars Syrah, Sonoma Hillsides, Sonoma, Calif. ($52)
A striking nose of black fruit, saddle leather and roasted meat is intriguing and lingering. The palate is filled with flavors of black cherry, dark plum, roasted game and smoke that glide over the tongue and onto the finish. Hints of mocha mingle with soft tannins to provide a medium-bodied finish.
2005 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($45)
A standard-bearer of Australian shiraz featuring a complex bouquet of cigar box, lead pencil and black licorice. The well-balanced body includes concentrated flavors of blackberry, cassis, blueberry liqueur, black licorice and dark chocolate. The underpinnings of minerals supports hints of pepper and spice on the lovely finish.
2003 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie, Rhone Valley, France ($56)
A great expression of classic syrah, with a bouquet filled with scents of cassis, roasted meat and black olives. The mouth-feel displays rich flavors of blackberry, cassis, black cherry and spice on the intricate palate. The long, luscious finish featured just a touch of black pepper.
2003 E. Guigal Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France ($60)
Bright notes of blackberry, cherry, blueberry and violets fill the nose. Lovely flavors of blackberry, plum, cinnamon and espresso fill out the entire palate. The elegant body has great structure and leads to a graceful finish featuring notes of black pepper.
2004 E. Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne, Rhone Valley, France ($500)
Yes, $500. Part of the famed “la la” series from Guigal that includes La Landonne, La Mouline and La Turque, these wines make up the “holy trinity” of Rhone Valley syrah. The heady bouquet of blackberry liqueur, black currant, roasted meat and tapenade is otherworldly. Complex flavors of blackberry, rich plum, mocha, espresso and cinnamon come in waves over the entire palate and onto the long, rich finish, which is simply sublime.
