At his three Busboys and Poets locations, owner Andy Shallal has always served up a side of left-wing politics with his salads, eggs and cappuccinos, as progressive bookstores and poetry slams share space with the dining rooms.
Politics aren’t as evident at his new endeavor, Eatonville, which sits across the street from the first Busboys on 14th Street. But culture and history are very much part of the picture. The restaurant is named after, and takes its concept from, the Flordia hometown of famed American author Zora Neale Hurston (who, it should be noted, also attended Howard University).
And after an ill-fated attempt to select his chef via a “Top Chef”-style competition (he fired the winner), he settled on a top toque and opened the doors early last month.
The Scene: The large, sunken space gets a ton of natural light from the picture windows in front, but it’s what’s on the other walls that makes the biggest statement. Each of them house a mural painted by a local artist. Taken in together, they can appear a bit cacophonous to the eye, but up close, some of the work is beautiful, and delightfully in keeping with Shallal’s southern theme. A smaller bar, and a quieter lounge, resides upstairs.
The Pour: The beer and wine program here is a winner. An enviable array of microwbrew drafts (think Magic Hat No. 9 and Abita Turbo Dog) are served in Mason jars. As for the grape, you can’t spend more than $60 for a bottle of wine on this one-page list — although you could pay more than that for some of the same bottles at other D.C. restaurants. Wine geeks will jump at a Cakebread sauvignon blanc for $48, or a half bottle of Trimbach Riesling from Alsace for $19. The bar needs to pay attention to its details, however. On one visit, a glass of white wine was served at room temperature. On another, a mint julep was so watered down as to barely be reminiscent of bourbon.
The Taste: At his Busboys locations, Shallal seems to be content with cuisine that satisfies, but rarely wows. So it is at his new venture. Executive Chef Rusty Holman hews closely to soul food’s greatest hits. You’ll find respectable versions of gumbo, etoufée and pecan-crusted trout. Fried chicken breast is crispy and juicy, and the fried green tomatoes boast goat cheese and corn salsa. The execution is still uneven in some spots. The right half of a BBQ-glazed mahi mahi emerged perfectly done; the left side was unforgivably overcooked. A cheddar tart appetizer betrayed no cheddar flavor, nor much flavor from the roasted tomatoes that topped it. A much better choice is the catfish, which was dusted in cornmeal before being perfectly fried. And the grits on the side were creamy, cheesy and luscious.
The Touch: On all my visits, service was prompt and efficient, even able to share a story or two about the murals or about Zora Neale Hurston.
Don’t Miss: The hush puppy appetizer, which oozes out a filling of rock shrimp and leek fondue. It can be truly tough to put a new spin on southern food, but this dish delivers.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you’re working on your bikini body. As you might expect, the chef isn’t afraid of the fryer. The diet conscious can sate themselves with one of four salads, mixed with shrimp, oysters or chicken.
Why You Will Go: Value. Like plenty of other new restaurants, Eatonville’s prices are sensitive to the current economy. Props to Shallal for developing a dining room where three courses can set you back less than $30.
