I will never understand why so many wine enthusiasts resist popping the corks on bottles of sparkling wines or champagne unless they are celebrating a special occasion or the end of the year. It’s a shame, really, since these wines are incredibly versatile and pair well with a variety of foods as well as being swell on their own. Famed author and bon vivant, F. Scott Fitzgerald, once proclaimed, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right.”
Even I struggle with reaching for a bit of the bubbly, but I am getting better. (Note: I made a point of opening a bottle of champagne this weekend while watching the plethora of football games from the comfort of my couch).
Now that the holiday season is in full stride, it is a great time to reach for a sparkling wine. Whether you are hosting a holiday soiree, need a well-received hostess gift or just want to start your own tradition of enjoying these wines on their own, go ahead and succumb to the seductive sound of a cork popping from the bottle.
Before diving into specific recommendations, a quick primer on sparkling wines is in order. While just about every wine-growing region on the planet produces some version of sparkling wine, it is helpful to remember that only wines made in the tiny Champagne region in France can be called Champagne (as denoted by the capital “C” in the name). They are produced using the strict “methode champenoise,” where the secondary fermentation, responsible for those wonderful bubbles, occurs in the bottle. All other champagne-style wines are referred to as “sparkling wines.”
For example, prosecco sparkling wines, from the Veneto region of Italy, are some wonderfully crisp, refreshing sparkling wines. These wines are made using the charmat method, where the secondary fermentation occurs in large stainless steel tanks before the wine is bottled. While this may be a less expensive way of getting bubbles in the wine, it actually works quite well with the prosecco grape because it preserves the fresh, delicate flavors that might be otherwise masked using the traditional champagne method.
The most popular designation is brut, a dry style that is usually a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Blanc de blancs (white from white) is a wine made solely from chardonnay, while a blanc de noirs (white from black) is made with pinot noir. Ros?s are usually produced using pinot noir grapes, whose juice is allowed to stay in contact with the grape skins just long enough to impart a pinkish hue.
So this holiday season, make a new resolution to drink more champagne and sparkling wines next year. To quote wine writer Willie Gluckstern, “In a perfect world, everyone would have a glass of champagne every evening.” Retail prices are approximate.
If you’re hosting a party, prosecco is an inexpensive way to enjoy a wonderfully crisp, refreshing sparkling wine that will make your guests feel welcome. The Non-Vintage NV La Tordera Prosecco di Valdobbiadene from Veneto, Italy ($18) is a good value. Scents of lemon and lime fill the bouquet while flavors of apple and nectarine dominate the front of the palate. The crisp, refreshing finish features citrus notes and just a hint of pear and yeast at the very end.
If you want to toast to world peace this holiday season — and who doesn’t? — do it with the 2006 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs from Napa Valley, California ($30). This 100 percent chardonnay wine — made in the methode champenoise style — gained international recognition in 1972 when then-President Nixon served it at the historic “Toast to Peace” in Beijing, China. This vintage possesses aromas of key lime, freshly-cut green apple and honeydew melon, followed by just a hint of pineapple upside-down cake. The palate is layered with flavors of citrus, ripe pear, pineapple and baked apple upfront and end with notes of baked bread on the long, fresh finish.
The best values for authentic champagne will be non-vintage, where wines are blended from several different years in order to maintain a certain consistency — or house style. A wonderful example is the non-vintage Montaudon Brut from Epernay, France ($30). The tiny, precise bubbles add a certain degree of elegance as they deliver lovely notes of apple, pear, citrus and roasted almonds across the entire palate. Toasted hazelnuts are featured on the crisp, balanced finish.
A very reasonable way to stick your proverbial toe into the pool of expensive vintage Champagnes is the 2002 Bertrand Delespierre Brut Premier Cru ($60), which is equal parts pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. The fragrant scents of green apple and buttered toast on the nose lead to flavors of baked apple, ripe pear, roasted hazelnuts and candied ginger on the palate. The structure is full-bodied and the finish, featuring notes of toasted almonds, is round and full.
