Over the last decade or so, many critics have alluded to a trend in wine where wines are produced to a standard referred to as an “international” style. This points to a homogenization of many red wines that, regardless of country of origin or varietal, taste the same. Winemakers appear to be focusing on producing wines with clean, fruit-forward flavors and finishes that are big, bold and one-dimensional. While the movement toward this style has definitely helped to improve the quality of wines, it apparently has come at the expense of removing a sense of place and time that the soul of a wine can — and should — convey.
So when I had the opportunity to attend a recent tasting of Spanish wines from the region of Ribera del Duero, I was pleasantly surprised by how many of the wines actually tasted “of a place.”
Located in Spain’s northern plateau, approximately two hours north of Madrid, Ribera del Duero is synonymous with tempranillo, Spain’s most popular grape varietal. The term ribera means “river bank” and is defined by the 71 mile-long Duero River Valley, whose diverse soil composition, steep banks and temperate climate provides an ideal location for viticulture. And for producing wines that taste “of a place.” Retail prices are approximate.
Located in Gumiel de Mercado, a small village in the western region of Ribera del Duero, is the Arrocal winery. Just 10 years old, Arrocal has already grabbed the attention of consumers and critics alike. The 2010 Arrocal ($19) is 100 percent tempranillo and spends about six months aging in oak barrels, just enough time to give the rustic black cherry fruit, plums and licorice flavors a chance to mellow and meld with the bright acidity. QPR 7.5
The first vintage of 2009 Arrocal Finca la Mata ($19) spends just about 18 months in oak barrels and has a more pronounced dark fruit characteristics on both the nose and in the mouth, including blackberry, black raspberry and rum cherry notes. The lengthy finish leaves both a charming and rustic impression that features a touch of saddle leather and earthiness. QPR 8
Tempranillo flourishes in Ribera del Duero, where it is also known as tinto fino or tinta del pais. It takes on a particularly brooding characteristic in the 2007 Bodegas Cepa 21 ($25). Made exclusively from tinto fino, the red cherry and floral violet nose leads to a very well-balanced palate featuring flavors of black cherry, dark plum and black currants. The 14 month aging in French and American oak barrels contributes to the structured finish where notes of vanilla and toasty oak linger. QPR 8.5
Bodegas y Vinedos O: Fournier produces three distinct wines, including the 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos O. Fournier Spiga ($24), whose tempranillo fruit is harvested from vineyards located at 2,600 feet. It is aged approximately 12 months in both new and used oak barrels and features charming flavors of red plum, dark strawberry and pomegranate that glide across the tongue on a mellow chassis and leads to a soft, laid-back finish. QPR 8.5
Bridging the gap between traditional and new-world is the mother-son team of Bodega Martin Berdugo, located in the Aranda de Duero region. Even the label on the 2006 Bodega Martin Berdugo MB ($30) is a homage to new (top half) and old (bottom half). The tempranillo features both ripe flavors of big red fruit and subtle earthy tones on the beautifully structured palate. Additional notes of leather and tobacco combine on the long and elegant finish, supported by sweet, ripe tannins. QPR 9
Note: QPR is a rating system that compares the quality a wine delivers relative to the price. A QPR of 10 is considered an excellent value.
