Every once in a while, I am so blown away by one producer that I feel the need to shout out to the world, “Pay attention to these wines!”
The Solms Delta wines seriously impressed me when I first tasted them six months ago, but now having tried some of their new releases and other vintages I can say without reservation these guys are for real.
Located in the Franschhoek Valley, South Africa, this 300-year-old property was revived in 2001 by Mark Solms, a renowned neuroscientist. Solms’ ancestors made wine, though his parents abandoned the tradition and he spent much of his adult life in London.
When the wine bug bit, Solms transferred his passion for science to agriculture, moved back home and turned his family’s land into a vibrant wine estate.
As a first stroke of brilliance, Solms hired Hilko Hegewisch, the longtime winemaker from neighboring Boschendal. Along with his friend from London, Richard Astor, he set up the “Wijn de Caab” trust that benefits its tenant workers. Astor subsequently purchased an adjacent property and the rest is destined to become history.
A major reason why Solms is so exciting is his use of desiccation. Far from being revolutionary, this process was invented by the ancient Greeks.
Using simple pliers, the vine is clamped, cutting off the water supply to the fruit for a period of about six weeks. This results not just in concentration, but also in completely unique flavors. Not all the wines are desiccated, as Solms has found that some grapes like shiraz and grenache blanc are more suited for the process than others, like mourvedre.
While both estates are making superb wines, my space limitations force me to focus on those that make the greatest statements — these being the ones that are fully or partially desiccated.
Solms — Hegewisch “Koloni” 2007: With each vintage, the proportion of riesling in this wine increases. Now up to 73 percent, it also has 14 percent muscat d’alexandria and 13 percent muscat de frontignan. Completely desiccated, it is full-bodied and reminds me a bit of pineapple upside-down cake, with hints of cream and coconut. With 2.5 percent residual sugar, this wine is not quite a dessert wine and would be ideal with cheese. Suggested retail: $30
Solms — Wijn de Caab “Amalie” 2007: Two-thirds desiccated grenache blanc and one-third viognier, this wine surpasses the very good ’06 rendition. Weighty and slightly oily on the palate, it does not come off as flabby in the least. On the contrary,
24 hours of skin contact have given this remarkable texture that serves as a base for a delicious coating of banana, vanilla and white peaches. Suggested retail: $24
Solms — Hegewisch Shiraz, “Africana,” 2005: This may prove to be Solms flagship wine. Completely desiccated, the fruit was aged in new French oak for 15 months, but it’s beautifully integrated. Smoky and floral with huckleberries, blackberries and fire-roasted chocolate, this is one of the best New World shiraz wines I’ve tried. Suggested retail: $37
Pamela S. Busch is the wine director and proprietor of CAV Wine Bar & Kitchen in San Francisco.
