Last week I wrote about restaurants in the District that were a great place to enjoy a great bottle of wine at the hands of wine knowledgeable staff. The criteria for making the cut were simple: I focused on restaurants that have interesting or well-known wine lists, employ a dedicated wine professional and provide exceptional stemware.
With the aforementioned standards to guide my preferences, this week I’ll cover several restaurants in the surrounding Northern Virginia and Maryland areas that should be on every wine lover’s list.
Please note that due to the dynamic nature of restaurant wine lists, the inventory at each restaurant can vary from day to day, so if there is a special bottle you are trying to hunt down, please call the restaurant and confirm its availability. I am sure that most will be happy to put it aside once they have confirmed your reservation. Prices are approximate.
Northern Virginia
2941
2941 Fairview Park Drive, Falls Church
The wine list at this modern French restaurant is definitely one of the finest in the area, featuring more than 600 different labels, including both rare and unique selections. If the choice is overwhelming, then put yourself in the capable hands of Sommelier Kathy Morgan and just sit back and relax. She may start you off with a refreshing glass of 2005 Riesling by Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, Kabinett, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Germany ($12/glass or $45/bottle), to get you in the mood or suggest a bottle of the venerable 2000 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Bordeaux, France ($230), to pair with chef Jonathan Krinn’s Spiced Millbrook Venison Loin.
RESTAURANT EVE
110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria
Tucked away down a narrow alley, just off the main thoroughfare of Old Town, Restaurant Eve is an oasis of fine wining and dining. Sommelier and self-proclaimed “Liquid Savant” Todd Thrasher maintains a thoughtful list of wines, each selected to celebrate either mood or food. And with Cathal Armstrong in the kitchen, there’s a lot to celebrate. Try the 2005 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Heimbourg, Alsace, France ($90), with the Artic Char from the bistro menu, or perhaps a bottle of Cathal’s favorite, the 2005 Chehalem Three Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Ore. ($68), with the pan-roasted veal sweetbreads, available in the chef’s tasting room.
TALLULA
2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington
Occupying the space of the former Whitey’s in Arlington, Tallula offers a fun, low-key approach to enjoying wine. Whether you order a bottle from the 300-plus list or choose from the selection of 70 wines available by the glass, Anne Scott or Chris Mullins will help you find something to match the top-notch cooking of chef Nathan Anda. For example, either the well-balanced 2005 Mary Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Calif. ($55), paired with the Hudson Valley poussin or the powerful 2005 Sea Smoke Ten Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Calif. ($75), with the bison short ribs are sure to enhance your evening.
Maryland
MRS. K’S TOLL HOUSE RESTAURANT
9201 Colesville Road, Silver Spring
Residing in the stately former toll once owed by Blanche and Harvey Kreuzburg (thus the name), this elegant restaurant is famous for more than just its legendary cookies. Owners Theo and Konstantina Margas, along with General Manager/Sommelier Spiro Gioldasis, have assembled one of the finest wine lists in Montgomery County. (It was awarded Wine Spectator’s celebrated Award of Excellence in 2006) Whether you splurge on the toe-curlingly good 2000 Axios Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif ($219) or sidle up with the delicious value-oriented 2002 Felipe Rutini Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($35), the efficient staff and stylish atmosphere at Mrs. K’s will make you feel like a million bucks. And don’t forget to order the cookies for
dessert.
GRAPESEED
4865 Cordell Ave., Bethesda
Chef Jeff Heineman is all about food and wine. He goes to great lengths to ensure that each dish you enjoy at his restaurant is paired with the perfect wines. And given the extensive wine list, you’ll be glad to know that most of the dishes are available in smaller portions, allowing you to try multiple superb pairings, like the Crispy Tilapia, paired beautifully with local favorite 2005 Horton Viognier, Orange County, Va. ($9.50/glass or $38/bottle) or the Orange Braised Pork Shank to keep company with the 2004 Rosenblum “Heritage Clones” Petite Sirah, Calif. ($12/glass or $48/bottle). If you have room, try the Coconut Roulade with a glass of 2002 Robert Pecota Moscato d’Andrea, Napa Valley, Calif. ($7).
THE IRON BRIDGE WINE COMPANY
10435 State Route 108, Columbia
The Iron Bridge Wine Company — whose motto is “where every night is a wine tasting” — doesn’t know whether it’s a restaurant or a wine shop. Thank goodness it’s both. This venerable local watering hole has gained regional acclaim, both for its cooking as well as for its wine program (wine seminars are featured weekly). The restaurant is literally inside the wine shop, so half the fun is perusing the shelves for the wine you want to have with dinner. Try the 2005 Cinnabar Pinot Noir, Central Coast, Calif. ($46), with the Duck Trap River smoked salmon. For a heartier match, enjoy the 2002 Laurona Garnacha/Cariñena/Syrah/Merlot/Cab, Montsant, Spain ($37), with the roasted lamb chops. If you’re truly stumped, ask about the company’s wine flights, where you get to try a half glass of three different wines.
