What defines a French family wine dynasty? Is it based on the success of its First Growth Bordeaux wine that only well heeled wine connoisseurs might collect? Or does it involve a wildly successful wine brand that is a household name for value-oriented Bordeaux? Or is it possibly the successful forays made into other wine regions around the world? More than likely, it is the combination of all of these that make Chateau Mouton Rothschild synonymous with wine royalty. That, and the test of time.
As legend has it, Mayer Amschel Bauer, who was the son of a German goldsmith, founded the Rothschild fortune. His father, Moses Amschel Bauer, rented a shop that had a large Red Shield over the doorway. As Mayer became successful in the banking business, he bought his father’s old business and changed his name to Rothschild (German for “red shield”) to honor his father’s hard work. In 1770, he married and subsequently had five sons and five daughters. He sent his sons to five major capitals across Europe in order to establish a branch of the family banking business. And thus the Rothschild empire was born.
In 1853, Nathaniel de Rothschild, Mayer’s London-based son, purchased the well-known Bordeaux vineyard, Chateau Brane-Mouton and renamed it Chateau Mouton Rothschild. In addition to making some of the world’s greatest wines, Chateau Mouton Rothschild — or simply Mouton — also instituted many groundbreaking practices, including the first estate to bottle at the Chateau, utilizing unique artwork from famous painters for labels for each vintage, and the creation of the “Museum of Wine and Art,” which displays exhibits of fine art as it relates to wine.
But probably the most significant development of all was the creation of Mouton Cadet, an affordable “second” wine made with grapes from the famous estate. It happened in 1930 when the economic crisis of the Great Depression was affecting the consumption of fine wine (sound familiar?) so the Baron Philippe de Rothschild declassified the 1930 vintage and sold it to select customers under the name Mouton Cadet. It was such a hit and demand was so great, that in subsequent years, grapes from neighboring vineyards had to be purchased by Mouton just to meet the need.
After World War II, Mouton Cadet’s popularity began to expand to other countries. By the 1970s, the United States became one of the biggest consumers of the brand, encouraging the creation of Mouton Cadet Blanc, whose softer, more fruit-forward style was well received in the United Kingdom and domestic markets.
Today, the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Nathaniel’s great-great granddaughter, has expanded the empire to include part ownership of Opus One (a high-end Napa Valley red wine made in a Bordeaux style) in California, Escudo Rojo (Spanish for “red shield”), a venture from Maipo Valley, Chile, and a project closer to home, a brand called Baron Philippe de Rothschild, which make a range of wines from vineyards located in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France.
I had the wonderful pleasure of sampling through the Mouton portfolio with Adrien Laurent, the director of North American exports for Mouton Rothschild, while I was in Paris last month. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Mouton Cadet Blanc, Bordeaux, France ($10)
Made from a blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle, this white wine is smooth and round in the mouth. Flavors of white peach, nectarine and green apple are dominant on the palate but remain fresh and crisp thanks to the bright acidity. A touch of grapefruit slides in on the lengthy finish.
2007 Mouton Cadet Rouge, Bordeaux, France ($10)
This red blend is made from classic Bordeaux varietals of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. It is surprisingly well-balanced and elegant for a wine at this price, featuring fresh, round fruit — blackberry, cherry and black raspberry — and a supple finish with hints of spice and earthiness at the end. A great value.
2007 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Merlot, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($8)
Looking to take advantage of the unique microclimates of Southern France, the Rothschild family expanded in the Languedoc region to create ripe, value-oriented wines. The merlot has remarkable structure and elegance for the price and displays plum, dark cherry and blackberry flavors on the palate. Notes of spice and chocolate blend in on the supple finish.
2007 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($8)
Another wine from the Southern France collection, this red beauty is steeped with flavors of blackberry, cassis and ripe cherry. The firm-yet-lengthy finish provides balance and notes of spice adds depth.
2007 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo Red Wine Blend, Maipo Valley, Chile ($14)
Escudo Rojo means “red shield” and is the first venture in Chile for the Rothschild family. The wine is a unique blend of cabernet sauvignon and carmnre from Maipo, Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys as well as cabernet franc and syrah from Maipo Valley. The smoky, meaty nose leads to flavors of dark plum, black cherry and spice in the mouth. The well-balanced finish has just a hint of black licorice and cocoa on the backend.
