In the spirit of the new year, I thought I would share with you some of the personal goals — well, personal wine goals — that I resolve to achieve. Resolution number one: I will try to quantify the value of a wine with a numerical score. As I noted in an article last year, one of the things that I enjoy the most about writing this column is sharing some of the terrific wine values that I have discovered over the years. Nothing is more rewarding than reviewing a good wine and then doing a double-take at the price tag. I love finding wines that deliver a lot of quality for a reasonable price — or what I like to call, “Quality-to-Price Ratio.” The QPR is the Holy Grail for wine lovers, and the good news is there is a decent amount of high QPR wine on the market.
Over the past year, I have received emails asking me to develop a rating system that readily allows readers to quantitatively compare one wine to another. I have resisted doing this since wine is so subjective and flavor profiles can vary widely from one consumer to another. It’s a bit like trying to assign a numerical rating to something as subjective as a piece of art. And I dislike the thought of readers simply reducing their decision about a particular wine based on a scale, system or rating without reading the actual wine review. So I have decided to develop a system that employs the best of both worlds; reviews that incorporate a numerical scale.
Beginning with this column, I will provide a numbered scale, where a rating of 10 would represent the best wine-for-the-money. Since I don’t generally review wines that are mediocre — or worse — a rating of 3 or below would be rare because it would represent a below-average QPR.
Resolution number two: I will drink more champagne. Since returning from my trip to the Champagne region, I have been obsessed with bubbly. Besides, I like champagne for special occasions, so why wouldn’t I like it for not so special occasions?
Good champagne doesn’t have to break the bank. I happen to think the Non-vintage Jean Laurent Blanc de Blanc ($39) from Champagne, France, is darn good bubbly for the price. The nose of gardenias and toasted hazelnuts is enough to get your palate ready for the full, lush flavors of buttered toast and crisp green apples. The next time I want a bottle of bubbly for dinner, I will reach for this affordable — and authentic — champagne. QPR 8
Resolution number three: I will try more wines that are off the proverbial beaten vineyard path. Life is too short to drink bad wine, yet there are a lot of good wines from countries that don’t always get a lot of attention. In 2012, I will endeavor to reach for a road-lesser-traveled bottle of wine to have with dinner, just for the heck of it.
A good example comes from the steep slopes of the Priorat region of Spain. The 2008 Onix Priorat Classic ($19) is produced by a group of small co-operative vineyard owners called La Vinicola del Priorat. This red beauty is made from equal parts of carignan and grenache that have been sourced from vines that are over 60 years of age and then vinified without any use of oak. Aromas of wet stone and black cherry dominate the bouquet while flavors of dark plum, licorice and Asian spices fill out the savory mouthfeel. The spicy finish is smooth and long. QPR 7
Another case in point is the 2006 Black Pearl Oro ($17)
from the Paarl region of South Africa. A blend of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, it sports aromas of Thin Mint cookies and blackberries. The extra-rich mouthfeel supports luscious flavors of blackberry, black plum and dark chocolate on the front of the palate and notes of black pepper and cinnamon on the long, lingering finish. QPR 8
