For example, I recently wrote about a series of wines by Kim Longbottom, the producer of Henry’s Drive, who names all of the wines in her portfolio based on a postal theme. My favorite name of that particular series — which, unfortunately, is not currently available in our area — is the Postmistress Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling chardonnay that is just a bit “saucy.” Another is the Trial of John Montford, named for the man who robbed the mail coach (Henry’s Drive) and made off with a bag of loot.
But if we rely on the old adage “you can’t judge a book by its cover,” then neither should one judge a wine by a clever label or name. All too often, I have opened a bottle of wine with a cute name or colorful packaging only to discover I was the victim of clever advertising. Nor should consumers fall prey to the recent marketing phenomenon of wine producers placing every manner of cute animal on their labels like some sort of bizarre wine list from Noah’s Ark. Evidently — and I am not making this up — recent marketing studies have shown that consumers are more prone to purchasing a wine that sports an animal on its label. Talk about getting the wool pulled over your eyes.
Still, there are some pretty tasty wines with some very clever names out there. It’s proof that you don’t have to trade in your sense of humor for a sense of good taste. Here are a few of my favorites from tasting notes I have taken throughout the year. Retail prices are approximate.
2008 “Cat Amongst the Pigeons” Unoaked Chardonnay, Australia ($16)
While I can’t find out what’s behind the name, I can tell you this “naked” chardonnay lets all of the bright chardonnay fruit shine through, showing off crisp flavors of green apple, nectarine, pear and citrus. The finish has great length and depth, with notes of lemon-lime and tangy tropical fruit.
2009 D’Arenberg “Broken Fishplate” Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills, Australia ($18)
According to the winery’s Web site, the wine takes its name “as a result of the fishplates which sit in the bottom of the harvester and collect the falling grapes, which are invariably destroyed” due the tight turns the driver has to make on the rugged hillside terrain of the vineyard, located in the Adelaide Hills. Nothing good is easy, and this wine is good. The fragrant bouquet sports scents of tropical fruit, including guava and mango. The abundant acidity keeps the citrusy flavors of mango, lychee and papaya fresh and crisp all the way through to the refreshing finish.
2007 Tait “The Ball Buster” Proprietary Red, Barossa Valley, South Australia ($20)
The “Ball Buster” is a blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot that really delivers a lot of wine for the money. Scents of cassis, blueberry liqueur and toasty oak captivate the nose while lush flavors of ripe blackberry, plum and black raspberry dominate the palate. The rich, chocolatey finish is deep and rich and seems to go on and on. Needless to say, my wife loves the name.
2008 Molly Dooker “Two Left Feet” Red Wine Blend, South Australia ($25)
The dynamic duo, Sarah and Sparky Marquis — formerly the winemakers at the above mentioned Henry’s Drive — know how to make serious wines that are fun to drink. This blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot is full of distinctive scents of black plum, dark chocolate and ripe cherry. The big mouth feel plays up chewy flavors of luscious blackberry, black plum, mocha and roasted coffee. The long finish sports just a hint of melted licorice. As for the label — two tangled-up dancers — Sparky explains, “Sarah loves to dance and I love to dance … on Sarah’s feet.”
2007 Armida Winery “Poizin” Zinfandel, Sonoma, Calif. ($25)
Lest you think that the Aussies get all the fun, this full-bodied zinfandel is from the heart of Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma. According to the Web site, it’s “the wine to die for.” Well, I don’t know about that, but it’s definitely worth tracking down. Bright notes of cherry, raspberry and blueberry cover the tongue on a medium-bodied frame. The slightly dusty finish features just a touch of black pepper. Best of all, there are no cute animals on the label. Just a skull and crossbones.
