Ah, pinot noir — the most maddening, wonderful, seductive, frustrating grape known to Bacchus.
Many winemakers I know agree the pinot noir grape is one of the most difficult varietals to grow and vinify, due in part to its thin skin and persnickety nature. But I can tell you that when pinot noir is good, it’s great. And when it’s great — well, it just doesn’t get any better.
Pinot noir originally gained popularity in the Burgundy region of France sometime around the first century It is widely believed that Roman conquers brought the noble grape with them during their invasion of Gaul. However, recent evidence suggests the indigenous inhabitants might have already been growing the grape when the Romans arrived.
Either way, the true hero of pinot noir was the Catholic Church, whose dedicated Monks spent the next several centuries experimenting with fermentation techniques and storage methods, eventually elevating the wine to legendary status throughout Europe. By the late 18th century, the French Revolution changed the face of pinot noir when most of the vineyards were confiscated from the church and divided into tiny, family-run parcels.
Today, pinot noir is still revered in the famed French region, as well as wine-growing countries all over the world including Chile, New Zealand, Australia and the western United States. And more than any other grape I know, pinot noir can take on a distinctive personality from each locale.
Here are a few of my favorites from around the globe. Retail prices are approximate.
France
Wines from the Cote Côte d’Or region in Burgundy take on a perfume-like quality. The best of these wines taste of strawberry jam and smoked meat, all rolled into a delicate frame. Serve with roast duck.
2003 Louis Jadot Pommard Rugiens Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France ($80 – available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill)
Expensive, but worth every seductive sip of ripe red cherries, violets and raspberries. The chocolatey notes on the finish are somewhat uncharacteristic but certainly welcomed on the massive-but-smooth, lengthy finish.
2003 Domaine Robert Jayer-Gilles Nuits St Georges les Hauts Poirets, Burgundy, France ($80 – Available at MacArthur Beverages in D.C.)
Scents of violets and black cherries captivate the nose. Charming flavors of wild strawberries and meaty notes swirl around a core of raspberry liqueur. The long finish makes you forget the hefty price tag.
New Zealand
These wines have a tendency to run a little lighter and drier in style with bright berry fruit flavors accenting red cherries. Most pair brilliantly with grilled salmon.
2005 The Crossings Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20 – available at Total Wine and More in McLean, Va.)
Fresh, ripe red cherries and strawberries play over the entire tongue and lead to a wonderfully light and bright finish. Notes of dried spices and truffles join in on the back end to keep the wine from being dominated by too much fruit.
2004 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($36 – available at The Wine Specialist and Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, both in D.C.).
Cherry jam characteristics dominate the front of the palate while softer flavors of blackberries and vanilla find their way to the back of the tongue. Just a hint of oak sneaks in on the medium finish.
California
Bigger and more expressive flavors of black cherry and spices define the pinots from Sonoma. Built more for tuna steak and Asian cuisine.
2004 Flowers Pinot Noir, Andreen-Gale Cuvee, Sonoma Coast ($55 – available at Circle Wine and Liquor in D.C.)
Rich flavors of black cherry, blackberry and plum are framed by soft tannins and perfect acidity. Warm flavors of cherry cola and black truffles melt all the way through the elegant finish.
2004 Chalone Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($30 – available at Calvert Woodley in D.C.)
This pinot is an excellent expression of the region. Black cherries, smoked ham and earthy flavors coat the palate and end crisply on the clean, straightforward finish. The plentiful acidity can cut through the fat of richer foods.
Oregon
Known for their balance between ripe fruit and abundant acidity, wines from the Willamette Valley represent some of the best values in pinot noir in the world. A wonderful match for game fowl.
2003 Cristom Pinot Noir, Marjorie Vineyard, Willamette Valley ($35 – available at MacArthur Beverages in D.C.)
This single vineyard bottling offers ripe red cherries, sweet strawberries and whispers of coffee on the well-structured, elegant finish.
2005 Soter Pinot Noir, Beacon Hill, Willamette Valley ($35 – available at MacArthur Beverages)
Beautiful structure highlights flavors of chocolate-covered strawberries and candied cherries and carries them all the way through on the lush finish; where notes of maraschino cherries join in for good measure.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
