» Guy: A couple of weeks ago, The Vine Gal wrote about big red wines to get you through the winter. Since I did not want to be left out in the proverbial cold, I thought I’d review some big reds of my own. But given that this is her territory, and the fact that we had recently attended a wonderful syrah tasting together, she just couldn’t allow me to review these wines without her “guidance.”
» Gal: It’s not that I don’t trust The Vine Guy to write about big red wines on his own, it’s just that we have a different set of criteria when it comes to defining “big red wines.” I like my syrahs to have a “meat on the bone” character —rich, full-bodied and powerful. It’s a wine that would be right at home with hearty fare such as cassoulet or Irish stew. In general, I tend to gravitate toward the Australian version more than the traditional Northern Rhone or California breed — not that there’s anything wrong with them — it’s just that they’re more “his” thing than mine.
» Guy: Now wait a minute. I appreciate a fruit-forward, masculine syrah as much as the next guy (or gal), but I prefer my syrahs with a bit of finesse and depth. I look for layers of flavors and the distinctive black (sometimes white) pepper notes that thevarietal is famous for. And since the syrah grape has done so well in so many parts of the world, there is a wide range of styles to suit most palates.
» Gal: Which is why we readily agreed to moderate a tasting that showcased syrah based wines from California and Australia. Our gracious host assembled a thoughtful collection of wines from recent vintages and allowed us to sample them by country. Here are our favorite wines from the tasting. Retail prices are approximate.
He Said
2003 Alban Vineyards Syrah “Reva”, San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California
($150 available from the winery at www.albanvineyards.com or www.wine-searcher.com)
I rarely recommend a wine that is not readily available in our area, but sometimes a wine is so good, it’s worth the effort to hunt it down — and this is one of those wines. From the perfumed nose of blackberry liqueur and mushrooms to the extraordinary flavors of black plums, black truffles and baked blueberries that seem to float over the entire tongue, this wine is stunning. Peppery notes add a definitive punctuation to the luxuriant finish. If you have a difficult time tracking down the 2003, try to grab a bottle of the sensational 2004.
2004 DuMol Syrah, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
($62, available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in the District)
A little softer and rounder than the aforementioned Alban syrah, but the DuMol delivers plenty of warm blackberry, dark plum and black raspberry fruit flavors on the front of the palate and hints of tar (not a bad thing) and black pepper on the long, lovely finish.
2004 Amon-Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia ($85, available at The Vineyard in McLean)
The folks Down Under refer to their syrah as “she-razz.” Regardless of what you call it, I was pleasantly surprised how well this young wine is performing. Scents of blackberry and vanilla dominate the opulent nose and carry over onto the palate where flavors of black cherry and mocha join in. Even though the sweet tannins keep it all in check, an hour or more in the decanter couldn’t hurt to soften it up a bit.
She Said
2003 Pax Cellars Syrah, Mendocino, California ($75, available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill and MacArthur Beverages in the District and The Vineyard)
This wine did it for me. I was captivated by its compelling aroma of baked blueberries, currants and acacia scents. The firm structure delivered the bold flavors of black fruits, tea and dried herbs (sage?) in style. A peppery finish kept this syrah true to its pedigree.
2004 Marquis Philips Shiraz
9 McLaren Vale, Australia
($40, available at Circle Wine and Liquor and Calvert Woodley in the District and State Line Liquors in Elkton, Md.).
Baby, oh baby, what a wine. Melted licorice and black plums enchant both the nose and the tongue. Additional flavors of jammy blackberries, olives and espresso weave in and out of the beautiful, if not massive, structured finish. Definitely consider decanting this brute an hour or two ahead of time.
2004 Shirvington Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($75, available at The Wine Specialist and Calvert Woodley in the District)
Talk about big, this wine clubbed my tongue and drug it back to its cave. Delicate aromas of crème de cassis, baked plums and vanilla lulled my nose into a false sense of security, but the massive flavors of blackberry jam, tar, espresso and mint landed firmly on the palate. Even six hours in the decanter barely tamed it. Yum.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail [email protected].
