As March Madness winds down, sports fans, whose brackets, like mine, have been busted into a thousand little pieces, will tune in this Saturday and watch slack-jawed as the unlikely match-up between 11th seeded Virginia Commonwealth and 8th seeded Butler unfolds on a national court-of-thrills in Houston. What, you may ask, does all of this have to do with wine? Well, nothing actually. I was all set to write a column about the intricate details of how phenolic compounds found in grapes influence the character and flavor of wine, but you’ll just have to wait for a week or two to see how that exciting topic unfolds. In the meantime, I have been swept up by the hype surrounding the most unlikely of giant-killers — VCU.
What appropriate wines should you open and enjoy while watching the gentlemen from Richmond make history this weekend? Why, wines from Virginia, of course.
Just like the 11th seeded teams of past and present, Virginia wines are surprisingly good. And I don’t mean “surprisingly” in a negative or mean way. It’s just that Virginia wines don’t often get the attention and recognition they deserve on the national stage. They are often overshadowed by more aggressively marketed wines from the West Coast. But this weekend, it’s Virginia’s time to shine. Both VCU and the wines of Virginia are finally getting the attention they so richly deserve. Retail prices are approximate.
If you’re looking for a wine to sip, swish and swallow, pick up a bottle of 2006 Prince Michel Barrel Select Chardonnay, from Leon ($18). The barrel fermented chardonnay boasts aromas of vanilla, pear and ripe apple. The rich, creamy mouthfeel and luscious flavors of baked apple, pear and peach are due, in part, to the sur lie aging process, so the wine stays in contact with the yeast and other beneficial sediment for a longer period of time. The toasty finish offers up hints of roasted cashews.
Regular readers know that I am a big fan of Virginia wine pioneer Dennis Horton. His eponymous winery, Horton Vineyards in Orange County, produces some of the best Viognier wines in the country. His 2009 Horton Vineyard Viognier is a steal at $20. It boasts a striking nose featuring scents of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and white peaches. Flavors of peach, pineapple, papaya and honey-buttered toast have laserlike focus throughout the entire palate and onto the beautifully balanced finish where abundant crisp acidity keeps the wine in perfect balance.
In December, the prestigious Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyards went into bankruptcy when lenders foreclosed on the property. The silver lining is that the 2005 Kluge New World Red Wine from Albemarle County ($22) was purchased by several wine shops at a discount. Even though the wine is selling for less, the Bordeaux-style blend is still rich and delicious in the mouth, featuring flavors of black cherry, cassis and roasted coffee. The subtle finish is pretty and soft, with just a hint of dried herbs and earthiness. At this price, it’s a slam dunk.
Down Richmond way, in the shadow of Monticello, is the delightfully charming Barboursville Vineyards. But don’t let the stately grounds and pristine vineyards fool you. This is place where serious wine is made, like the 2007 Barboursville Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($30). Aged for up to 14 months in new and used French oak, this wine offers up a full-court press of flavors for the tongue, including notes of blackberry, dark plum, cassis and roasted coffee. The long, ripe finish is balanced with soft tannins and good acidity, bringing out a telltale hint of mint on the back end.
And if VCU wins, celebrate with a bottle of nonvintage Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay Sparkling Wine from Charlottesville ($26). Made from Chardonnay grapes, it boasts delicate scents of Gala apple and ripe pear while the tiny bubbles deliver flavors of apples, peach and brioche. The finish is balanced, crisp and refreshing.
