Among the dining trends that have come to D.C. recently, one of the most visible has to be upscale “fast food” joints with a chef’s sensibility behind them. The latest iteration of the theme — joining Eamonn’s in Old Town Alexandria, Tackle Box in Georgetown and Surfside in Glover Park, to name a few — is Good Stuff Eatery on Capitol Hill.
Good Stuff is the brainchild of “Top Chef” alum Spike Mendelsohn; the concept inspired by the hamburgers his grandfather used to make for him. Indeed, the menu doesn’t stray far from burgers, fries, salads and shakes.
The Scene: At prime hours, hordes of congressional staffers queue up in what can be a 20-minute line that has been known to snake out the front door. Inside the two-level space, the simple décor doesn’t stray far from distressed white wood, in keeping with Mendelsohn’s “farmhouse-meets-the-city” formula. Upstairs, the compulsory flat-screen TVs are tuned to sports on the weekend; news during the week.
The Pour: Nothing fancy here in the way of beverages, just what it takes to wash down the burgers. For that, you can choose from a pair of draft beers, three more beers in the bottle, Boylan sodas and Gorilla coffee.
The Taste: It’s more about how the burgers are dressed up than about the burgers themselves, which are on the thin side and cooked nearly to well done. But the buttery Pennsylvania Dutch bun gets your attention, as do some creative accompaniments. Apart from the traditional cheeseburger, bacon cheeseburger and patty melt, you’ll find the Asian-inspired Blazin’ Barn, with pickled diakon and carrots, mint, cilantro, Thai basil and spicy mayo. Or my favorite, the 5 Napkin, which gets cheese, bacon and a fried egg. Dieters will find a turkey burger with avocado, sprouts and tomato on a whole wheat bun, and the vegetarian burger replaces beef with a flash-fried Portobello mushroom. Speaking of veggies, salad lovers can choose from four varieties of the classic iceberg wedge. And it’s worth sticking around for the house-made ice creams and shakes, even it means another trip to the counter. Good Stuff’s weak link is its deep-fryer. Both the hand-cut fries and the sinful Vidalia onion rings are packed with flavor, but tend to emerge soggy, limp and moist with grease.
The Touch: You’re not looking for TLC at a place like this, only efficiency. And in my experience, it runs like clockwork. After you order and pay, you’re handed a buzzer, which typically is bouncing across your table within five to seven minutes. And when you grab your grub, it’s bagged up for you in case you’re taking it to go.
Don’t Miss: The toasted marshmallow milkshake with homemade ice cream and big, dense marshmallows.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you have a big appetite and a small wallet. For all their charms, the burgers here aren’t exactly Flintstone-sized. I found I could polish off two in one sitting, and I’m not a big guy.
Why You Will Go: To rebel against fast food chains. For only a couple bucks more, you can eat better, and Spike proves it.
If you go
Good Stuff Eatery
303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE
(202) 543-8222
www.goodstuffeatery.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Wednesday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Thursday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Prices: Burgers $5.49 to $7.69; salads $6.89
Bottom Line: A unique burger joint from a celebrity chef.
