Why is it that the French make such a fuss whenever they have a decent vintage? Probably because they don’t actually happen that often – or at least, not as often as in other parts of the wine world, where growing conditions are more consistent from year to year. So when wine growing regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne have a good-to-great year, two things happen: first, demand is higher and prices for premium labels go through the roof, and second, there is more wine to sell, which can result in some great bargains if you know where to look. And that is just what happened with white wines from the 2009 vintage in Burgundy.
Produced exclusively from chardonnay grapes, white Burgundies take on a completely unique personality compared to their domestic cousins. Many wine lovers consider chardonnay from Burgundy to be the Holy Grail of white wines, sought after by collectors for their seductive flavors, incredible balance and remarkable aging potential.
What gives the chardonnay grape its well-deserved reputation is the diverse microclimates and soil compositions that hopscotch across Burgundy like a patchwork quilt. The main Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) of Burgundy is the C?te d’Or. Located to the north is the Chablis appellation.
The 2009 vintage started off with a cold winter that melted into a warm spring, resulting in even flowering on healthy vines. Summer was hot and several hail and thunderstorms reduced crop yield in several vineyards and hastened ripening. But sunny and dry weather carried all the way through the rest of the summer and into the harvest. This made it possible for winemakers to pick grapes in several stages over a week or so, selecting fruit that was at its peak.
This ripe fruit vintage produced wines with solid core flavors, good acidity and lovely concentration and balance. Here are a few excellent values to lookout for. Retail prices are approximate.
The 2009 Maison Joseph Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne ($14) takes advantage of sourcing their chardonnay grapes from all over Burgundy. Chablis-like in character, with hints of honeysuckle and nectarine on the nose, it sports a solid mouthfeel, featuring flavors of baked apples and green melon, with just a whisper of mineral notes on the crisp finish.
The 2009 Guy Mothe Domaine de Colombier Petit Chablis ($16) retains all of the true characteristics of Chablis, with tangy notes of green apple and citrus in the mouth and flinty crisp dryness on the mineral supported finish.
If your palate favors a richer style chardonnay, try the 2009 Michel Bouzereau Bourgogne Blanc ($20). Its floral bouquet is seductive and the well-delineated flavors of apples, citrus and buttered toast are supported on a creamy texture. The medium-bodied finish is persistent and clean.
A personal favorite in my home is the 2009 Verget M?con-Bussi?res Vieilles Vignes du Clos ($22). It’s a step up from the producer’s M?con Village, featuring intense flavors of crisp apple, green melon and ripe pear. A touch of citrus and mineral notes on the slightly flinty finish provides nice balance and structure.
Ex-pat Blair Pethel makes an extraordinary chardonnay from his winery in the Cote de Beaune region. Blair’s 2009 Dublere Bourgogne Blanc ($25) is graced by scents of acacia and melon on the lovely nose that beautifully compliments the flavors of green apples and pear in the mouth. The balance is delightful, featuring a clean, crisp finish.
