Every new Thai restaurant seems to trigger a predictable set of reactions that start with “not another one” and end with curiosity. Does this new entry, with a name that stands for “creativity-elegance-education,” have anything to offer that is different, memorable, unusual? Anything that sets it apart?

For Cee, the answer is yes but it is hard to explain why. Perhaps it is the surprise of discovering a subdued yet elegant dining space just down the street from Harley-Davidson in the company of furniture stores, muffler shops and a handful of other restaurants. This is not garish Thai. The colors are muted tones of green and brick with splashes of bronze, silver and gold, the furniture dark wood with clean lines.