When the owners of the new W Hotel on 15th Street announced plans for their flagship restaurant, J&G Steakhouse, earlier this year, Washington’s food aficionados had two reasons for skepticism. First, it was to be another case of a celebrity chef — in this case, Jean-Georges Vongerichten — slapping his name on a local restaurant, but remaining largely removed from its day-to-day operations. Second, it was — yawn — yet another steakhouse.
While a few visits to the restaurant doesn’t dispel those concerns entirely, it does mitigate them. For starters, Vongerichten’s local chef de cuisine, Philippe Reininger, is proving himself to be quite a capable deputy. What’s more, J&G is a steakhouse in name only. Apart from a small “From the Grill” section, the menu would be at home in most of the city’s other upscale New American dining rooms. Which makes me wonder if the owners got the memo that D.C. diners are a more adventurous bunch than they’ve ever been, and that they no longer need to see the word “steak” to get them through the door.
The Scene: Space and natural light are the hallmarks of this smart-looking room. Ceilings loom 20 feet in the air, huge picture windows let copious amounts of sunlight in, and murals of cherry blossoms brighten the walls. My favorite feature may be the inviting seating. Oval tables combine with high-backed banquette, and most importantly, the room’s 96 seats are spaced far enough apart that lobbyists can feel free to pass secrets in private.
The Pour: For a restaurant of this stature, the wine list is surprisingly small. But on the plus side, the prices are surprisingly modest.
The Taste: Steak aside, most of Reininger’s best work comes with fish and vegetables. Pea soup is bright and seasonal, mixed tableside with parmesan foam. The usual gazpacho gets a lift from watermelon. Roasted tilefish sounds an Asian note with sesame vinaigrette, mushrooms and asparagus. What about the steak, you ask? The prime steaks are as flavorful and well-marbled as you’d expect, but the kitchen missed my requested temperature of medium on two occasions. And I found the five steak sauce options to be largely forgettable: most were cloyingly sweet. Meat eaters may enjoy the glazed short rib, too, sweetened with carmelized onion and deliciously moist. And don’t ignore the sides. The fries would make a Belgian beam with delight, and the creamed spinach with parmesan and basil made me wonder why every steakhouse didn’t serve the greens like this.
The Touch: Service here is courteous and professional at the table, but what concerns me more is what happens away from the table. Courses are frequently mistimed, with appetizers sometimes hitting the table instantly, while entrees languish for what feels like eons.
Don’t Miss: The sweet corn ravioli. One of Vongerichten’s signature dishes, the tiny dumplings are dyed green with spinach and served over a fresh tomato salad and basil oil. Eating your veggies has never been such a treat.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you may have to run quite a gantlet to get there. The hotel (especially its rooftop bars) is so popular these days, hotel security can get quite aggressive in asking you who you are and what you’re doing there. On one visit to the restaurant I explained myself to three separate people on my way from the hotel’s front door to the restaurant.
Why You Will Go: Because given the spaces on the premises for an after-dinner drink, it makes the perfect date spot. If you’re smart enough to make a second reservation for the breathtaking rooftop, head up there. Or repair downstairs to the quiet, intimate wine bar.
