Cuba: Not Such a Hot Destination After All

Airlines are cutting back on their once-vaunted plethora of flights to Cuba because … it turns out that hardly anyone wants to go to Cuba. As Bloomberg News reported in late 2016:

U.S. airlines rejoiced earlier this year when it was announced that commercial flights would resume to Cuba after more than a half century, with one executive at a major carrier calling it almost a “once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.” Yet as service begins this week to Havana, the long-awaited travel surge to the island is already in doubt.… Citing weak demand, American Airlines Group Inc. trimmed plans for almost a quarter of its trips to Cuba early next year.… The uncertainty represents a stark turnaround from March when U.S. airlines sought permission to fly almost 60 daily round trips to Havana, triple the 20 daily frequencies authorized under the agreement between the U.S. and Cuba. They also applied for 10 daily round trips to each of nine other destinations on the island.

That was after President Barack Obama had issued an executive order allowing Americans wanting to visit Cuba to fly there directly instead of having to route their trip through, say, Mexico. But that was then, and now is now.

Other carriers, including Delta Air Lines Inc. and Spirit Airlines Inc., said bookings so far are in line with expectations. Southwest declined to comment. But airlines have kept fares low to fill seats, said Paul Berry, spokesman for Spirit, known as an ultra-discount carrier. “When fares are as low as ours, that means there’s a lot of capacity,” Berry said.

There’s a reason for this: Who’d want to go to Cuba?

Now actually, I think flying down to Cuba could be a lot of fun: Gorge on fresh fish, body-surf at the beaches, slurp some mojitos, visit the Havana cathedral, take a side trip to Ernest Hemingway’s old villa at Finca Vigía, hunt down some Desi Arnaz-style rhumba bands, and slurp some more mojitos. What would not be to like?

Except that trips like that—for pure tourism and recreation—are strictly forbidden under Obama’s executive order. As one tour website explains:

Traveling to Cuba is possible now for educational institutions (faculty, staff and students); cultural historical and religious organizations; private foundations; amateur sport teams; and US professionals and residents interested in cultural people-to-people exchanges with the Cuban people….

Oh boy: cultural people-to-people exchanges with the Cuban people. Here’s how another tour operator explained this to the Washington Post:

What we do with our insightCuba groups is we bring them to meet with normal Cuban people in normal life settings, whether it’s a school or a community project—and there are so many in Cuba that are amazing—meeting with artists and musicians and so forth.

So here is “Day 2” from the prospectus for a National Geographic Expeditions Cuban tour:

Learn about the challenges and successes of historic preservation from a local expert, then set out into Old Havana to see centuries-old gems—and meet the Cubans who live and work in them. After lunch, delight in an exhibition by dancers from one of the preeminent Cuban performing arts companies before participating in a discussion with them. This evening, enjoy a private pre-opening tour of a former factory-turned-art gallery. Meet with local artists to learn about the contemporary art scene in Havana.

Here’s Day 3:

Spend the morning with Cuban professionals, engaging in a specially arranged discussion on education, economics, social issues, the role of government, and other topics of interest.

And Day 4:

This morning, visit an urban organic farm to meet with a local farmer and discuss agriculture in Cuba.

Now, on Day 7, there actually is a visit to Finca Vigía. Except that:

A museum expert joins us to share a Cuban perspective on Hemingway’s strong connection to the Cuban people.

Cost of the 9-day National Geographic trip per person: $7,595 plus air fare. Nearly $8,000 for 9 days of Marxist propaganda—sorry, I meant “cultural people-to-people exchanges.” That’s about $888 a day. Where’s that brochure for the Cayman Islands, where I won’t have to meet any “local artists”?

No wonder they’re having trouble filling airplane seats.

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