Summer means steamed crabs in Maryland

It?s a Maryland tradition that dates back to the Native Americans living on the Eastern Shore, and it?s one of the most sought-after summer delicacies for locals and visitors alike.

People recognize the local culinary delight by its spider-like appearance and its bright red color. It?s the Maryland steamed crab, and nothing smells or tastes like summer in the free state more than a tray of steaming red-hot, hard-shell crabs piled high with seasoning.

At Obrycki?s Restaurant on Pratt Street in Baltimore, which sells about 8,200 bushels of crabs each year, owner Cheri Cernak said the season really kicks off on Preakness weekend. What attracts crowds to the restaurant, she said, is the unique seasoning blend used to flavor the crabs.

“We have a trademark seasoning, which is our black pepper and dry mustard blend, where most people use red pepper and rock salt,” said Cernak. “People like it, and that?s why they come in. ”

Christina Lee, 12, who was dining at Obrycki?s Thursday night with her father, Gerry, said that though it?s time-consuming, picking crabs is definitely worth the effort.

“The best thing is that after you do all the work, you get to enjoy the good part,” Lee said.

For Andy Nardone, owner of The Barn Crab House in Carney, the secret to the success at his restaurant, which sells about 300,000 crabs per season, is steaming all crabs to order.

He said that the majority of the crabs he sells comes from Louisiana and Texas, where the season is longer and the crabs are bigger. He starts bringing in crabs from local waters in August and September when they are at their prime.

“If you want to have quality crabs, you need to cook them to order,” he said.

Tammy Foster, a manager at the Crab Shanty in Ellicott City, said people start getting a craving for crabs around April, and demand doesn?t slow down until September. Foster said the restaurant, similar to Obrycki?s, uses its own blend of seasoning that attracts repeat customers.

“We really offer top-of-the-line seafood at a value price, and we?re family-owned,” said Foster. “It?s been the same restaurant owners for 27 years, so we really care about the product we put out.”

Crab joints

» Obrycki?s, 1727 East Pratt St. 410-732-6399

Price range: $30/dozen for small to $78/dozen for jumbos

» The Barn Crab House, Joppa and Harford roads

410-882-6182

Prices: small ? $32/dozen, medium – $40/dozen, large – $50/dozen, jumbo – $55 to $65/dozen

» Crab Shanty, 3410 Plumtree Road

410-465-9660

Prices: small- $48/dozen, medium- $54/dozen, large- $62/dozen, jumbo-$70/dozen

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E-mail Bruce Miller at [email protected].

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