Agraria opened on the Georgetown waterfront in 2006 as one of the first local restaurants to emphasize the farm-to-table concept. But it struggled to get traction, as an appealing menu and a gorgeous interior couldn’t compensate for its early game of musical chefs, or a location that’s less than welcoming in the winter months.
This fall, its owner, the North Dakota Farmers Union, went back to the well, opening Founding Farmers in the International Monetary Fund building downtown. And business hasn’t been hard to come by: A central location, cozy interior and approachable cuisine have led to a packed house and lunch and dinner almost from the get-go.
The scene: Decor in the large, two-level space feels fresh and modern, while still beating the agricultural drum. Shelves house jars of vegetables and bottles of bourbon. The design of some of the booths is inspired by grain silos. Your group might be seated at one end of a large, communal table. It’s also as green a restaurant as you’re likely to encounter. Built according to Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design standards, it uses low-voltage lighting, house-filtered drinking water and reclaimed wood, and it’s filled with natural light during lunchtime hours.
The pour: As silly as the term “bar chef” sounds to me (and they use it here as soon as you sit down), the bartenders here deserve points for creativity. The 18 specialty cocktails are worth sampling, whether it’s a throwback (the Martinez, a precursor to the Martini) or a new creation (the Farmer Jon, made with bourbon, orange Curacao and lemon juice). Wines — most either biodynamic or organic, are available by the glass, quartino or bottle at prices that are competitive for downtown. Another nice touch: made-to-order soft drinks, such as mint limeade and grapefruit soda.
The taste: This is a menu badly in need of an editor — one of those that tries to be all things to all people. You’ll find pizzalike flatbreads, cheese plates, pastas, sandwiches, steaks, comfort food … it’s all a bit overwhelming. You could do worse than to stick with red meat here. The beef is earthy, flavorful and well marbled, from the grilled New York strip to the skirt steak slathered with tangy chimichurri sauce to the rock-salt roasted prime rib. You’ll also find a hearty beef and veal meatloaf, spiked with mushrooms and Worcestershire, pot roast and slow-braised short ribs.
Other winners: The fried green tomatoes with green goddess dressing could give the soul food cooks in town a run for their money. And the ricotta ravioli, finished with a bourbon creamed corn, is exactly what I’d like to see more of on this menu — a creative twist on something familiar. Too often, however, even the classics left me lukewarm. It was tough to taste the lobster in the lobster roll. The fried giant shrimp were also bland. Oysters Rockefeller were gritty and heavy.
The touch: After your server goes through an often-interminable spiel about farmers, sustainability, etc., you may have some trouble tracking him or her down. The dining room tends to devolve into chaos quite frequently, so this isn’t the place to be if you’re in a hurry.
Don’t miss: The corn on the cob dusted in parmesan cheese. Why haven’t I been eating corn on the cob like this my entire life?
Why you won’t go: Because you’re a seafood lover. The kitchen handles its turf better than its surf.
Why you will go: Because they also serve breakfast, something that’s tough to find outside of a hotel restaurant.
If you go
Founding Farmers
202-822-8783
1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW
www.wearefoundingfarmers.com
Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday; 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday and Friday; 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday; noon to 9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Small plates $5 to $15; entrees $15 to $45
Bottom Line: A great concept that just needs a bit of refinement on the menu to be a top destination.
