Americans just don’t drink enough Champagne. At least I know that I don’t, which is why I love this time of year. It gives me an excuse to pop — literally — open a bottle of bubbly and enjoy all of the wonderful versatility that Champagne has to offer.
Lily Bollinger, the former indomitable owner of the Champagne house bearing her name, put it best when she said, “I only drink Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it — unless I’m thirsty.” Wise words, indeed.
Last week, I wrote that the difference between sparkling wines and genuine Champagne is that only wines made in the tiny Champagne region in France — using the strict Methode Champenoise — can be called Champagne (denoted by the capital “C” in the name). All other champagne-style wines are referred to as “sparkling wines.”
Most midlevel priced Champagnes ($18 to $45) are non-vintage or “NV.” This means that it’s a blend from several years worth of wines from the same Champagne house. For example, a current NV might be made up of a little of the 2003 vintage mixed in with a little more of the 2004 vintage and topped off with the 2005 vintage. Vintners use this method to achieve uniformity and develop a “house style” in their wines so that they are consistent from year to year. A “vintage” champagne is always designated by a specific year on the bottle and is made entirely from grapes harvested that year.
Champagnes are also made from several different grape varietals. The most common are chardonnay, Meunier and pinot noir. A bottle labeled “Blanc de Blancs” (white from whites) is made entirely from chardonnay. “Blanc de Noirs” (white from reds) denotes that the wine was made from red grape varietals such as pinot Meunier or pinot noir. Rose wines are produced with the addition of “still” (without bubbles) pinot noir during the process.
Lastly, there are different sugar contents in champagne. The styles are classified on the label, so you can determine sweetness. The most popular style of Champagne is classified as “Brut” and is considered a dry wine, even though it has just a smidge of residual sugar, whereas “Extra Brut” is totally dry. Champagne labeled “Extra Dry” is actually a little sweeter than Brut, “Dry” is sweeter than Extra Dry and “Demi-Sec” is sweeter still.
In order to fully appreciate Champagne, it should be served chilled in a tall flute-style glass. The shape of the glass and the cold temperature preserves the bubbles and enhances the experience. Retail prices are approximate.
Non-Vintage Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne, Epernay, France ($28)
This nicely balanced wine is a wonderful value in non-vintage fine Champagne. The tiny, precise bubbles add a certain degree of elegance as they deliver lovely notes of apple, pear, citrus and roasted almonds across the entire palate. Toasted hazelnuts are featured on the crisp, balanced finish.
Non-Vintage Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Yellow Label, Reims, France ($40)
This perennial favorite is blended year-to-year with 25 percent (or more) reserve wines to achieve balance and consistency. The fragrant scents of green apple and buttered toast on the nose lead to flavors of baked apple, ripe pear, roasted hazelnuts and candied ginger on the palate. The structure is full-bodied and the finish, featuring notes of toasted almonds, is round and full. Perfect with lobster risotto.
1998 Pannier Blanc de Blancs, Dizy, France ($50)
A very reasonably priced vintage Champagne, with scents of roasted nuts and baked bread on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, fresh, and vivacious with flavors of Honey Crisp apple, pear and citrus fruit with a hint of dough.
Non-Vintage Bollinger Brut Champagne Special Cuvee, Ay, France ($55)
This is a very inexpensive way to stick your proverbial toe into the pool of expensive Champagnes. This is the house’s entry-level Cuvee and typically features notes of honeysuckle and brioche on the nose and flavors of apple, white peach, orange blossom and baked bread on the palate. The long finish has a slightly creamy feel and adds a level of elegance to the wine.
1999 Champagne Pommery Grand Cru, Reims, France ($90)
A good value in vintage Champagne, with a flowery bouquet featuring notes of white flowers and tasted brioche. The palate exudes rich, elegant notes of apple, ripe pear and roasted nuts. The finish is kept crisp and clean, thanks to the tight, tiny bubbles and abundant acidity, a Pommery trademark.
Non-Vintage Krug Grande Cuvee, Reims, France ($175)
If you are looking to splurge, this is your Champagne. It represents the trademark signature style of Krug, with a combination of intensity and charm. The creamy mouthfeel is layered with flavors of crisp green apple, baking spices, nectarine and buttered toast, all delivered on a medium-bodied frame emphasizing the lengthy finish.
