Crossing the Millard E. Tydings Memorial Bridge in any direction along Interstate 95 reveals the expansive beauty of the Susquehanna River, but nothing of the Victorian elegance or floating waterfowl sculptures within a town showcasing the river’s entry into the Chesapeake Bay.
Named after the French seaport Le Havre by Gen. Lafayette in 1785, Havre de Grace — with its own lighthouse and boardwalk — is a rare find.
“My husband and I discovered Havre de Grace while kayaking,” said Sherifa Clarke.
“Then we looked for a place to eat and decided to open a restaurant.”
She owns the Laurrapin Grille with her husband, Bruce.
Serving eclectic American cuisine with Northern California flair, the Laurrapin — which means “tasty” in hillbilly — recently has featured chicken bruschetta, Hungarian goulash, spanakopita and Smith Island soft shell crabs.
They also make a “mighty laurrapin” Philly cheese steak.
The Clarkes moved to downtown Havre de Grace from Bel Air in Harford County and live in a modest Victorian home.
“You can go hiking, kayaking and mountain biking,” said Clarke.
Nearby Susquehanna State Park and small islands near the Tydings Marina are ripe for bird watching.
“There’s a ton of bald eagles and herons,” said Clarke.
And there are flocks of fake birds.
“I’ve met people who’ve come from Switzerland to see the decoys,” said longtime resident Abe Locklear, who recommends the Decoy Museum.
“There’s a room with 1,000 wooden birds in it. Some of them very old, I won’t say prehistoric — but there are some strange looking ducks in there.”
Poised for growth with the Base Realignment and Closure process under way at Aberdeen Proving Ground and the continued explosion of Harford, Havre de Grace leverages a rich historical past as it prepares for a bright future — and no chain stores are in sight.
Gallery RoCa recently opened with two more art galleries on the way. Locally owned Jana’s Java keeps the lattes coming. Bulle Rock, a new upscale resort development, features villas with gourmet kitchens and a selection of older houses exist downtown where prices are still reasonable, starting in the $200s.
The charming town maintains its ties to Baltimore.
“You can go two blocks in any direction and still find yourself in a John Waters movie,” said Locklear.
A few doors from the Laurrapin is Washington Books, owned by John Klisavage. The store occupies two storefronts with Klisavage’s collections of comic books, including the Flash and the Green Hornet; Star Wars memorabilia; original GI Joes; rare books from the 1500s and vinyl — lots of it.
“These albums are pieces of history,” he said, lifting up a copy of “Let it Be” by the Beatles. “Look at this artwork. You don’t get these booklets anymore.”
His store contains 100,000 comic books and 1,000 records. The stockroom overflows with memorabilia. A Roberto Clemente bobble head goes for $1,500 and a 10,000-year-old mammoth’s tooth encased in glass carries no price tag.
“I’m passionate about collecting.” he said.
For a town that lost its bid to be the nation’s capital by one vote, Havre de Grace remains a bustling waterfront village.
“The time has come for Havre de Grace,” said Sherifa Clarke.
10 Things: Havre de Grace
CONCORD POINT LIGHTHOUSE
At the intersection of Concord and Lafayette streets, the second oldest lighthouse in Maryland illuminates the Susquehanna River. Along the boardwalk is the spot where the river enters the Chesapeake Bay. Striking views and wildlife, including herons and bald eagles, can be found. Kayaking, hiking, boating at nearby Tydings Marina. 410-939-3213
LAURRAPIN GRILLE
A place the locals say is the best restaurant in the “new” Havre de Grace. Located on 209 N. Washington, this hip restaurant in a renovated hardware store features eclectic Northern California cuisine. The Havre de Grace cityscape is painted on the wall. Brunch on Sundays. 410-459-6017
SPENCER SILVER MANSION BED & BREAKFAST
Situated in beautiful Havre de Grace by the Chesapeake Bay on 200 South Union, this spectacular Victorian mansion offers five guest rooms and a carriage house. Three of the guest rooms have private baths and two share a bath. Other features include oak woodwork throughout the mansion, five fireplace mantles and 10-foot-tall parlor doors. The carriage house is a two-story cottage furnished with oak antiques and features a queen-size bed, whirlpool bath, kitchenette and living room with fireplace. 410-939-1485
WASHINGTON BOOKS
A number of incredible objects await the curious mind at 131 N. Washington St. These include a book from 1584, a sleigh from the 1850s, life-sized “Star Wars” figures, old comic books, Elvis, Jimmy and Janis on vinyl, and a large Victrola. Collector’s paradise. 410-939-6219
HAVRE DE GRACE DECOY MUSEUM
This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of working and decorative Chesapeake Bay decoys ever assembled of this unique American folk art form. At 215 Giles St., visitors can find 1,200 decoys and decorative carvings by such artists as R. Madison Mitchell and Bob McGaw. 410-9369-3739.
TREASURES BY THE BAY
A small candy store with a tasteful life-size dancing Santa Claus in the window, Treasures is at 141 N. Washington St. Many delectable selections of chocolate are found in the candy case, along with Gummi bears. 410-942-0326
SUSQUEHANNA STATE PARK
Hiking, canoeing, mountain biking and bow hunting are in abundance off 4122 Wilkinson Road. The park is the home of the Rock Run Historic Area. History buffs will love touring the operational 200-year-old Rock Run Grist Mill, as well as the Rock Run mansion. This area also contains the Jersey Toll House, which at one time was the collection point for travelers crossing the covered bridge spanning the Susquehanna River. The mill, mansion and tollhouse are open for tours on weekends starting in May and will continue until the end of September. 410-734-9035
MACGREGOR’S RESTAURANT
Located at 331 St. John St., MacGregor’s features the largest crab cake in town and a host of other seafood specialties, including coconut shrimp and fried oysters. The eatery resides in a bank built in 1924. 410-939-3003.
GALLERY ROCA
Local, regional and international artists are featured in this attractive art space on 220 N. Washington St. Original oils, water color and mixed media can be found in this transformed 1896 storefront. 410-939-6182
JANA’S JAVA
A new local meeting place, Jana’s Java on 217 N. Washington St. serves coffees, teas, desserts and a heaping helping of hometown charm. 410-939-1098
